4Sevens clearance sale at Going Gear.com...

[Glock 'em down]

As most of you know by now, I am quite the flashlight nerd.

So when I ran across this sale, I have to admit...I did a little happy dance.

Recently, 4Sevens has underwent a logo change. Therefore, they are putting all of their old logo lights on clearance. Seems kinda silly to me, but oh well.

Because of this, Going Gear.com acquired their entire warehouse of old logo lights and are selling them dirt cheap!

Here's the link...

http://goinggear.com/clearance?manufacturer=37

If you know your lights, you know the 4Sevens brand. They rank right on up there with guys like Surefire and Streamlight and are slightly better (IMHO) than Fenix...but just by a touch. If Fenix would put forward clicky switches in their lights, they would be just as good as 4Sevens in my books.

Anyway, with the holidays fastly approaching, 4Sevens lights make awesome Christmas gifts!

Happy shopping everybody!

[foghorn918]

Thanks for the heads up, I'll be checking them out.

[Perplexed]

Thanks, GED! I was telling my sisters they needed to throw out their crappy K-Mart flashlights with anemic bulbs and get some quality units from 4Sevens. They pooh-poohed me, not knowing how much better those flashlights are than what they have. Now I have my Christmas shopping done

[FullAuto]

Use discount code "winteriscoming" for an extra 10% off the clearance prices.

[XD-9Guy]

So I see 4 models that will accept AA batteries between $35-$40. One of you self proclaimed torch nerds want to educate me on which one I should get?

[foghorn918]

I picked up 2 of them and used the discount code. Nice!

[FullAuto]

I only see 3 of the 9 that take AA batteries.

The two Quark "X" flashlights are pretty much the same except for the user interface; regular vs. tactical. The regular one can scroll through all the modes easier where as the tactical you program to the two modes you use the most. If you want to switch modes, you have to program the other(s) in. It doesn't cycle through all it's available modes as easily. I like the tactical though because it has the momentary mode always available (you don't have to fully click it on). The regular doesn't have momentary. It's a simple on/off.

Those are both XM-L LEDs. The third AA flashlight is an XP-G R5. The XM-L is a brighter LED in lumens. The XP-G has a head design to give it a little better throw (distance) where the XM-L will have better flood and more lumens. The XP-G has better battery life though. It will last twice as long on high (85 lumens vs half the time @ 115 lumens with the XM-L). This is on "high", not "max".

I'd probably go with the XP-G just for the run time difference. You'll need several flashlights and be a nerd like the OP and myself to know what you're missing in lumens or flood. That XP-G on max will be almost double a typical police officers Stinger he carries on his belt.

[XD-9Guy]

I have a SureFire right now and I've always thought I'd like more distance so more distance & better battery life = decision made. Thanks for your advice.

[Oklahomabassin]

Dang it, had to get into my wallet again!

[jakerz]

a hell of a deal. i have the quark 123 turbo and it's amazing.

[XD-9Guy]

I got the Turbo, I'm looking forward to having a bright light that takes AAs. Those CR123's get expensive because my Pelican eats them so fast.

[Glock 'em down]

So I see 4 models that will accept AA batteries between $35-$40. One of you self proclaimed torch nerds want to educate me on which one I should get?

I would advise you to skip the AA models and get one that runs off CR123 batts.

The reason why is simple. Alkaline AAs, AAAs, Cs and Ds all discharge simply by sitting on a shelf. They really go dead when inserted in a light with their points touching. CR123s live longer on the shelf as well as in the light. They also use ALL of their power. Meaning they stay bright until they die instead of your light getting weaker and weaker until it finally dies like the AAs and AAAs do.

I got the Turbo, I'm looking forward to having a bright light that takes AAs. Those CR123's get expensive because my SureFire eats them so fast.

Buy 'em by the dozen and they are cheaper.

[XD-9Guy]

HaHa I already pulled the trigger on the purchase. But I am still good with the model I chose, now I'll have a CR123 model flashlight as well as a AA model. Maybe I'll develop my own preference after owning and using both.

Also, noticed I currently use a Pelican not a SureFire. Only SureFire I have is the helmet light. Still need to figure out a way to attach it to the bill of my cap so I can actually use it.

[Oklahomabassin]

You might be on to something. I can't remember which light assembly I had in my G2 Nitrolon, but it quit working all at once. I had both the P60L and the P60. (one is LED and one is old bulb style) One would still work with used batteries but the other wouldn't work until new batteries were used. I called Surefire and the customer service guy said that one style requires more voltage to run than the other.

I would advise you to skip the AA models and get one that runs off CR123 batts.

The reason why is simple. Alkaline AAs, AAAs, Cs and Ds all discharge simply by sitting on a shelf. They really go dead when inserted in a light with their points touching. CR123s live longer on the shelf as well as in the light. They also use ALL of their power. Meaning they stay bright until they die instead of your light getting weaker and weaker until it finally dies like the AAs and AAAs do.



Buy 'em by the dozen and they are cheaper.

[Old Fart]

Use discount code "winteriscoming" for an extra 10% off the clearance prices.

Danka!