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The Range
Rifle & Shotgun Discussion
DIY Case hardening
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 849278" data-attributes="member: 8362"><p>Any time you heat a piece of metal be it with a oxy/accet. torch or a heat treating oven and quench it you will have distortion to some degree. The hotter the material being quenched the more possibility of distoration. Many variablies come into play here. A thin piece will warp more than a piece with more mass. (your 311's won't warp much) By using a 'fuel rich' flame and light grease ( try some Rig Gun Grease) you will be introducing carbon into the surface of the metal. Quenching is when hardness is realized, the higher the temp when quenched the harder the surface. (low carbon steel being case hardened needs to be quenched at or above 1333 deg. f. to realize hardness) The bone char process I use is , basicly, one of the 'old fashoned' ways of case hardening. It was and is done to case harden the steel the colors being a by product of the hardening process. Requires more than most have for tools, crucibles, heat treat oven large enough for crucible (mine is 13"h x 12"w x 18"d) , a minimum 35 gal. quenching barrel, a source for the proper bone charcoal, and a way to handle a 1333 deg. crucible to get it contents into the quench and retrieve those parts. Torch hardening can produce some colors for your project. Nice you have at least one expendible receiver to experiment with. There are few set rules and experimentation is the best way to see what works and what doesn't!<img src="/images/smilies/image1304.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":flamed:" title="Image1304 :flamed:" data-shortname=":flamed:" /> (the best quenching will be with oil for flame hardening, I'd have a bucket of at least 4gal. ,used motor oil will work as good as any and be the cheapest. have a fire extingusher handy and when you dunk the part in the oil swish it around until it is cool enough to handle with your hands)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 849278, member: 8362"] Any time you heat a piece of metal be it with a oxy/accet. torch or a heat treating oven and quench it you will have distortion to some degree. The hotter the material being quenched the more possibility of distoration. Many variablies come into play here. A thin piece will warp more than a piece with more mass. (your 311's won't warp much) By using a 'fuel rich' flame and light grease ( try some Rig Gun Grease) you will be introducing carbon into the surface of the metal. Quenching is when hardness is realized, the higher the temp when quenched the harder the surface. (low carbon steel being case hardened needs to be quenched at or above 1333 deg. f. to realize hardness) The bone char process I use is , basicly, one of the 'old fashoned' ways of case hardening. It was and is done to case harden the steel the colors being a by product of the hardening process. Requires more than most have for tools, crucibles, heat treat oven large enough for crucible (mine is 13"h x 12"w x 18"d) , a minimum 35 gal. quenching barrel, a source for the proper bone charcoal, and a way to handle a 1333 deg. crucible to get it contents into the quench and retrieve those parts. Torch hardening can produce some colors for your project. Nice you have at least one expendible receiver to experiment with. There are few set rules and experimentation is the best way to see what works and what doesn't!:flamed: (the best quenching will be with oil for flame hardening, I'd have a bucket of at least 4gal. ,used motor oil will work as good as any and be the cheapest. have a fire extingusher handy and when you dunk the part in the oil swish it around until it is cool enough to handle with your hands) [/QUOTE]
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