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The Water Cooler
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Home Ownership, done right
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<blockquote data-quote="Catt57" data-source="post: 3832013" data-attributes="member: 34578"><p>OK this is going to sound a bit crazy but hear me out. And this is assuming money is no object.</p><p></p><p>I would build it based on QUALITY construction of the early 1900's.</p><p></p><p>1. Framing - High quality, old growth, pressure treated pine for everything. (More resistant to rot and insects) All walls and ceilings framed in 2x6 and floor joists 2x8 minimum. Also complete with wind braces on the corners.</p><p>2. Walls - Plaster and wood lath. (Structurally stronger than the drywall construction of modern homes. It also provides a better sound barrier and insulation.) Ceilings would most likely be sheetrock for ease of installation.</p><p>3. Foundation - NO SLAB. Solid 10" to 12" thick concrete foundation. Raised at least 24". Reduces rot, provides better access to plumbing and HVAC, keeps water out in case of heavy rain/flooding. With closable foundation vents to provide air flow to allow it to dry it out during the wet months.</p><p>4. Stone facing 4"-6" thick PROPERLY INSTALLED on the outside. Never need to paint and extremely weather resistant. (I once had a house from the 1940's with this and with only the exception of a few days out of the year it helped with heating/cooling. It also was not cracked or falling apart.)</p><p>5. Designed to manage water - With large roof overhangs and eaves (24" overhang), drip edging, plenty of gutters, high foundation, steep roof, etc. Proper caulking all around. Quality 1/8" thick tar paper under the siding/facing stone (seriously, this stuff will outlast house wrap and is somewhat self sealing around nails/screws.)</p><p>6. Floors - Subfloor made from 1x8 lumber laid on the diagonal. True hardwood Oak floors (1" thick tongue and grove) laid over the entire floor before the walls are put up. (Strengthens the floor and helps prevent warping at the edges.)</p><p>7. Attic - Proper soffit and gable vents. Blown in insulation to the top of the 2x6 rafters.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Now, the modern changes I would make are:</p><p>1. Windows - Lots of them, and high quality aluminum or poly frame, double pane, UV blocking glass. With nail flange and caulked under and on top of the flange.</p><p>2. Central Heat and air of course.</p><p>3. Insulation - R-19 kraft faced fiberglass. Seams sealed with Tuck tape.</p><p>4. Plumbing - Pex is a must.</p><p>5. Network - Entire house would be wired with Cat 7. (Unfortunately plaster and lath can have negative effects on wifi signals.)</p><p>6. Electrical - Outlet on every wall and each within 8ft of the next. Quad outlets every 4 ft above the kitchen counter. Hard wired backup generator. Whole house UPS and Surge protection at the panel. 200amp service minimum.</p><p></p><p>And finally, CRAFTSMANSHIP! Whoever builds it had better be ready for me to nitpick the most minute details because it will be done right or else.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I'm sure I missed a lot but I think you get the idea.</p><p></p><p>There is a reason those old 100yr+ houses have lasted so long....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Catt57, post: 3832013, member: 34578"] OK this is going to sound a bit crazy but hear me out. And this is assuming money is no object. I would build it based on QUALITY construction of the early 1900's. 1. Framing - High quality, old growth, pressure treated pine for everything. (More resistant to rot and insects) All walls and ceilings framed in 2x6 and floor joists 2x8 minimum. Also complete with wind braces on the corners. 2. Walls - Plaster and wood lath. (Structurally stronger than the drywall construction of modern homes. It also provides a better sound barrier and insulation.) Ceilings would most likely be sheetrock for ease of installation. 3. Foundation - NO SLAB. Solid 10" to 12" thick concrete foundation. Raised at least 24". Reduces rot, provides better access to plumbing and HVAC, keeps water out in case of heavy rain/flooding. With closable foundation vents to provide air flow to allow it to dry it out during the wet months. 4. Stone facing 4"-6" thick PROPERLY INSTALLED on the outside. Never need to paint and extremely weather resistant. (I once had a house from the 1940's with this and with only the exception of a few days out of the year it helped with heating/cooling. It also was not cracked or falling apart.) 5. Designed to manage water - With large roof overhangs and eaves (24" overhang), drip edging, plenty of gutters, high foundation, steep roof, etc. Proper caulking all around. Quality 1/8" thick tar paper under the siding/facing stone (seriously, this stuff will outlast house wrap and is somewhat self sealing around nails/screws.) 6. Floors - Subfloor made from 1x8 lumber laid on the diagonal. True hardwood Oak floors (1" thick tongue and grove) laid over the entire floor before the walls are put up. (Strengthens the floor and helps prevent warping at the edges.) 7. Attic - Proper soffit and gable vents. Blown in insulation to the top of the 2x6 rafters. Now, the modern changes I would make are: 1. Windows - Lots of them, and high quality aluminum or poly frame, double pane, UV blocking glass. With nail flange and caulked under and on top of the flange. 2. Central Heat and air of course. 3. Insulation - R-19 kraft faced fiberglass. Seams sealed with Tuck tape. 4. Plumbing - Pex is a must. 5. Network - Entire house would be wired with Cat 7. (Unfortunately plaster and lath can have negative effects on wifi signals.) 6. Electrical - Outlet on every wall and each within 8ft of the next. Quad outlets every 4 ft above the kitchen counter. Hard wired backup generator. Whole house UPS and Surge protection at the panel. 200amp service minimum. And finally, CRAFTSMANSHIP! Whoever builds it had better be ready for me to nitpick the most minute details because it will be done right or else. I'm sure I missed a lot but I think you get the idea. There is a reason those old 100yr+ houses have lasted so long.... [/QUOTE]
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