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The Range
Gear Talk
Knife Edge Angle
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<blockquote data-quote="ez bake" data-source="post: 2004459" data-attributes="member: 229"><p>That's funny - I just broke out the Wicked Edge tonight to touch up some of the knives I'm selling (sad as that makes me).</p><p></p><p>Edge geometry and proper angles on primary/secondary/micro/(and in some cases, tertiary-micro) bevel are a lot more complicated when you figure in the grind/shape/thickness of a blade (as well as steel/heat-treat/tempering).</p><p></p><p>Manufacturers will ship knives with certain edge-geometry and angles (most of that info is available on their websites) but you can always re-profile. Probably the best thing to do at first is just learn to maintain the edge that comes on it (and then move on to adding/maintaining a micro-bevel). If you're dealing with a thick grind, but soft steel, you won't want to thin the edge out too badly (but if you're dealing with a thinner grind and very hard material, you might want to lay the edge back farther). </p><p></p><p>Basically, you're looking for edge stability - you want to be able to sharpen it, but you want that edge to last as long as possible (and you want it to be easy to maintain and bring back to sharp again).</p><p></p><p>S30V is a good steel to talk about here - you can't thin it out too much (it does not do well with little to no support behinds the edge-bevel), but even when you find that perfect edge - it most likely won't last if you just have one edge-bevel (S30V is notorious for dulling into a "working edge" within a day of decent use). You can actually circumvent this with a micro-bevel - it adds some stability to it and also makes it pretty easy to just strop back to sharp.</p><p></p><p>D2 is a completely different steel. You can just use a single edge-bevel and really you can leave a toothy edge on it and D2 will actually stay sharp (and can even get sharper depending on use). </p><p></p><p>Practice makes perfect. A good rule of thumb is avoid recurve blades if you're just learning to sharpen (unless you're a sadist) and stick with an easy-to-sharpen steel when learning and move on to harder stuff. Cheaper kitchen knives are a good place to start - they also typically come with soft steel, which will teach you not to use too much force when sharpening against a stone - that's one of the most important lessons in sharpening is force=bad, repeated light strokes=good.</p><p></p><p>Here is some good info:</p><p></p><p>Basics of knives:</p><p><a href="http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/knifeanatomy.php" target="_blank">http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/knifeanatomy.php</a></p><p></p><p>Steel info:</p><p><a href="http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=3" target="_blank">http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=3</a></p><p></p><p>A good video on Micro-Bevels:</p><p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmriTrx_qZo" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmriTrx_qZo</a></p><p></p><p>Good info on blade geometry and edge geometry:</p><p><a href="http://www.knifeart.com/bladgeomfaqb.html" target="_blank">http://www.knifeart.com/bladgeomfaqb.html</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ez bake, post: 2004459, member: 229"] That's funny - I just broke out the Wicked Edge tonight to touch up some of the knives I'm selling (sad as that makes me). Edge geometry and proper angles on primary/secondary/micro/(and in some cases, tertiary-micro) bevel are a lot more complicated when you figure in the grind/shape/thickness of a blade (as well as steel/heat-treat/tempering). Manufacturers will ship knives with certain edge-geometry and angles (most of that info is available on their websites) but you can always re-profile. Probably the best thing to do at first is just learn to maintain the edge that comes on it (and then move on to adding/maintaining a micro-bevel). If you're dealing with a thick grind, but soft steel, you won't want to thin the edge out too badly (but if you're dealing with a thinner grind and very hard material, you might want to lay the edge back farther). Basically, you're looking for edge stability - you want to be able to sharpen it, but you want that edge to last as long as possible (and you want it to be easy to maintain and bring back to sharp again). S30V is a good steel to talk about here - you can't thin it out too much (it does not do well with little to no support behinds the edge-bevel), but even when you find that perfect edge - it most likely won't last if you just have one edge-bevel (S30V is notorious for dulling into a "working edge" within a day of decent use). You can actually circumvent this with a micro-bevel - it adds some stability to it and also makes it pretty easy to just strop back to sharp. D2 is a completely different steel. You can just use a single edge-bevel and really you can leave a toothy edge on it and D2 will actually stay sharp (and can even get sharper depending on use). Practice makes perfect. A good rule of thumb is avoid recurve blades if you're just learning to sharpen (unless you're a sadist) and stick with an easy-to-sharpen steel when learning and move on to harder stuff. Cheaper kitchen knives are a good place to start - they also typically come with soft steel, which will teach you not to use too much force when sharpening against a stone - that's one of the most important lessons in sharpening is force=bad, repeated light strokes=good. Here is some good info: Basics of knives: [url]http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/knifeanatomy.php[/url] Steel info: [url]http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=3[/url] A good video on Micro-Bevels: [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmriTrx_qZo[/url] Good info on blade geometry and edge geometry: [url]http://www.knifeart.com/bladgeomfaqb.html[/url] [/QUOTE]
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