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<blockquote data-quote="montesa" data-source="post: 3852117" data-attributes="member: 477"><p>With sharpening, I’ve found that a lot of people buy the expensive gadgets because they don’t actually understand what’s happening. Unless you are completely resetting a thick edge, you don’t need to remove much metal. With those clamp style sharpeners, most people just go to town every time until it’s sharp. With a kitchen knife or knives that aren’t chipped, a simple high grit diamond stone and a strop is plenty. You only need to remove metal at the very edge lightly to raise a tiny burr. Then strop on leather or something. You can also use wet/dry sandpaper on a hard surface to achieve the same results. Even a ceramic rod will keep up most knives if they’re just used for cutting. </p><p></p><p>Edge geometry is key when it comes to efficient cutting so the more metal you remove the thicker the edge becomes. Assuming you’re not using something with a zero grind (no secondary bevel) like a chisel or Scandi grind</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="montesa, post: 3852117, member: 477"] With sharpening, I’ve found that a lot of people buy the expensive gadgets because they don’t actually understand what’s happening. Unless you are completely resetting a thick edge, you don’t need to remove much metal. With those clamp style sharpeners, most people just go to town every time until it’s sharp. With a kitchen knife or knives that aren’t chipped, a simple high grit diamond stone and a strop is plenty. You only need to remove metal at the very edge lightly to raise a tiny burr. Then strop on leather or something. You can also use wet/dry sandpaper on a hard surface to achieve the same results. Even a ceramic rod will keep up most knives if they’re just used for cutting. Edge geometry is key when it comes to efficient cutting so the more metal you remove the thicker the edge becomes. Assuming you’re not using something with a zero grind (no secondary bevel) like a chisel or Scandi grind [/QUOTE]
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