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The Water Cooler
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There are still some artists/musicians who "get it"
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<blockquote data-quote="tRidiot" data-source="post: 2881300" data-attributes="member: 9374"><p>The cap only provides a storage for <strong>very </strong>quick and <strong>short </strong>(like milliseconds) discharge of power, relatively small amounts in terms of dynamic power wattage, really. According to some folks, they're not really useful at all and only are are band-aid to help with the apparent "symptom" of dashlight flicker. I don't believe it's ever been conclusively shown to improve either sound quality or SPL in real-world applications. In spite of this, I <strong>do </strong>have a 5 Farad cap in my Tahoe. I still get pretty heavy dimming of the dash and interior lights when at full-tilt. It's really just a matter of being thorough to me and doing everything I can to improve the electrical system. It's even been theorized that this adds extra strain on your electrical system by adding in another component to charge. Oh well... I don't worry about it overmuch, honestly. In my system in the Tahoe, which is almost 8,000 watts, I don't think much outside of a massive bank of <strong>very </strong>fast-discharging batteries would realize an improvement in real-world output.</p><p></p><p>Luckily, I've overbuilt my system enough (from an electrical standpoint) that it doesn't really matter. lol</p><p></p><p>I ran several thousand watts on the stock alternator (90A) in my 240sx for many years without an alternator failure... I just decided in my new systems, since I can afford to do it "right" that I would overbuild the electrical system just to make myself feel better. <img src="/images/smilies/wink.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-shortname=";)" /> I don't get any noticeable voltage drop in the Z as of now, in spite of an available total power output of over 3,800 watts. I don't kid myself that I ever really come close to hitting that maximum output, either. I like to overpower my speakers just like I like to overbuild my electrical. <img src="/images/smilies/wink.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-shortname=";)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tRidiot, post: 2881300, member: 9374"] The cap only provides a storage for [B]very [/B]quick and [B]short [/B](like milliseconds) discharge of power, relatively small amounts in terms of dynamic power wattage, really. According to some folks, they're not really useful at all and only are are band-aid to help with the apparent "symptom" of dashlight flicker. I don't believe it's ever been conclusively shown to improve either sound quality or SPL in real-world applications. In spite of this, I [B]do [/B]have a 5 Farad cap in my Tahoe. I still get pretty heavy dimming of the dash and interior lights when at full-tilt. It's really just a matter of being thorough to me and doing everything I can to improve the electrical system. It's even been theorized that this adds extra strain on your electrical system by adding in another component to charge. Oh well... I don't worry about it overmuch, honestly. In my system in the Tahoe, which is almost 8,000 watts, I don't think much outside of a massive bank of [B]very [/B]fast-discharging batteries would realize an improvement in real-world output. Luckily, I've overbuilt my system enough (from an electrical standpoint) that it doesn't really matter. lol I ran several thousand watts on the stock alternator (90A) in my 240sx for many years without an alternator failure... I just decided in my new systems, since I can afford to do it "right" that I would overbuild the electrical system just to make myself feel better. ;) I don't get any noticeable voltage drop in the Z as of now, in spite of an available total power output of over 3,800 watts. I don't kid myself that I ever really come close to hitting that maximum output, either. I like to overpower my speakers just like I like to overbuild my electrical. ;) [/QUOTE]
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