Is this a feasible combo or any other A2 mounted supressor or is 10.5" to short?
10.5 is the perfect length for a suppressed SBR
Is it to short though. Is there and validity to people saying the bullet isn't stable enough out of a 10.5 and possible baffle strike? Why do people have gas blocks that turn off the gas on suppressed guns and is it necessary?
I never had any issues running a 10.5" barrel and suppressor. I am sure there might be bullets that could not be stabilized in a 10.5" barrel. The key to this is to test any new ammo without the suppressor on. If the bullets are not making nice little round holes in the paper.....don't shoot it through your suppressor. That bullet might make extra holes in your suppressor. Just use common sense, test without the suppressor first, and you will be ok.
Not all those gas blocks just turn the gas off. A lot of them have a reduced gas setting which allows less gas to flow back for cycling the bolt/bcg. With suppressor, the pressure is usually greater than normal shooting so more gas goes back into the upper receiver causing harsher cycling and the upper getting dirtier faster. With the lower gas setting, this reduces that effect. Realize the upper and all internal components will get dirtier fastger regardless, it is just reduced some with the lower gas setting. The no gas setting basically turns your AR into a bolt rifle if you want something like that.
Not all those gas blocks just turn the gas off. A lot of them have a reduced gas setting which allows less gas to flow back for cycling the bolt/bcg. With suppressor, the pressure is usually greater than normal shooting so more gas goes back into the upper receiver causing harsher cycling and the upper getting dirtier faster. With the lower gas setting, this reduces that effect. Realize the upper and all internal components will get dirtier fastger regardless, it is just reduced some with the lower gas setting. The no gas setting basically turns your AR into a bolt rifle if you want something like that.
IMHO it is not baflle strikes that are the issue since it is twist rate (not length) that gives the bullet stability. The problem with the 10" and shorter barrels is the severe erosion of the blast baffle. Just look at the muzzle flash off of these short barrels and realize that the blast baffle has to take the brunt of it. It really shortens the life of your suppressor. That is one of the reasons that AAC came out with their brake type mounts. It helps protect the blast baffle. Again, just my humble opinion, YMMV.
Thanks alot. Very helpful info. I am now Lookin at the SWR Renegade, after hearing here and there about Halo loosening and talking to Major Malf. I thought it might be a better choice. I also have a YHM folding front sight gas block so I was trying to determine the necessity of an adjustable block. I picked it up before I ever thought about suppressing. I have read here and there about guys making their gas blocks adjustable by drilling and tapping a hole into the side and installing stainless set screw so I'm thinking of goin that route.
. With the design of the end of the battlecomp 2.0 my thinking is it should help out with the erosion of the blast baffle. Is my thinking correct?
I would think so as well.
RobC posted pictures a few years back clearly showing the erosion from a 10.5 barrel after just a few rounds. I can't seem to find the thread with the new search, though.
These are both AAC M4-2000mod08 silencers. According to the posters neither have had a lot of rounds through them.
Blast baffle on short gun with a brake:
Blast baffle on short gun without a flash hider:
Erosion on muzzle brake from first can:
Blast baffle on short gun with a brake:
Blast baffle on short gun without a flash hider:
Erosion on muzzle brake from first can:
Similar threads
