Hot water tank issue

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Fredkrueger100

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Talked to the company this morning and was told to go to Lowe’s and get two new heating elements and that should fix the problem. They paid for them. It was weird, they told me the ones mine had were the elements that are bent. The ones I pulled out of my unit were straight. I bought the bent ones which are the ones they told me to get. Got them changed out earlier and filled that tank back up and turned it back on. It ran about 5 minutes and then did the same error code as before. So I called in again and was told the thermostat was bad. So they are sending me a new one because I can’t get it in stores. I had to pay for the shipping but not the part. I paid almost $30 to have it shipped next day so it should arrive on Tuesday. It better fix it or I am just gonna buy a new tank. Different brand of course. I won’t ever go for the top of the line again. If I had the normal thermostat I could have went to Lowe’s and got a replacement. All of this happened after the tech told me there thermostats are basically indestructible. That’s laughable. So for now it’s boil water to take a bath.
 

Fredkrueger100

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Are you on a well Tony? Build up of sediment could be causing a fault...I have to purge my heater tank every other year.
Yes I am in a well. I have a Culligan water softener that helps with the sediment. But I still get a lot. I looked inside my tank and it was a little hill of sediment build up. Couldn’t Believe there was that much. I flushed the tank a couple times to try and get it out but I didn’t see it coming out.
 

SPDguns

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I always get the cheapest water heater I can. The water in OK is so hard on them, if I get 10 years out of one I'm glad. When they start messing up, I just replace them, I don't want to spend two weeks trying to "fix" one. I completely redid mine last winter and made it easy to change out. And, fortunately I have gas not electric.
 

Fredkrueger100

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MacFromOK

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We used to have severe problems with sediment (lots of calcium in our water), and it would build up to the bottom heating element, where it would eventually provide enough insulation that the element would burn out. This first happened within a few years of building the house.

What finally solved our problem, was a "sand hog" heater that we bought from our electric co-op. It eventually developed a leak, and I discovered it had a piece of PVC tubing that went from the inlet almost to the bottom, with a gentle half circle turn (approx) at the bottom. It's flared at the top so it can't fall in.

So... everytime water flowed in, it stirred the sediment around and let it flow out with the output. I also discovered it was easily pulled out through the inlet hole, and it now resides in the replacement water heater (probably for 15 years or more). I plan to use it in future replacements as well.

Just a thought.
 

cm_osu

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We used to have severe problems with sediment (lots of calcium in our water), and it would build up to the bottom heating element, where it would eventually provide enough insulation that the element would burn out. This first happened within a few years of building the house.

What finally solved our problem, was a "sand hog" heater that we bought from our electric co-op. It eventually developed a leak, and I discovered it had a piece of PVC tubing that went from the inlet almost to the bottom, with a gentle half circle turn (approx) at the bottom. It's flared at the top so it can't fall in.

So... everytime water flowed in, it stirred the sediment around and let it flow out with the output. I also discovered it was easily pulled out through the inlet hole, and it now resides in the replacement water heater (probably for 15 years or more). I plan to use it in future replacements as well.

Just a thought.
Fyi you can order those curved dip tubes (along with a ball valve drain assembly) here http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/OrderPages/Sediment-Control-Flush-Kit.html

I've always intended to add one to mine but never have.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

MacFromOK

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