Home Ownership, done right

[-Pjackso]

So the moans and groans of home ownership thread, [LINK HERE], got me wondering.....

It'd be interesting to hear all the ideas of how to build a better house. FUNCTIONAL STUFF.
I'm not talking the cosmetic stuff like granite countertops or the fancy light fixtures.
It's necessary for the ladies - but is secondary for this discussion.

If you were in charge to build yourself a house, with the intent of *NO/LITTLE* maintenance - and built to be easily *REPAIRABLE*.
Sure, ICF concrete houses sounds cool, and is tough as nails - but you can't move walls, easily expand the house, or repair it - if needed.
What would you use or how would you plan/design it?


I'll start:
1) Absolutely must have a standing-seam metal roof with No exposed fasteners, a true 50 yr roof. DO NOT use the agricultural metal roofs with exposed fasteners (the fasteners start coming loose after 10-15 years and start leaking). If I recall correctly, I think standing seam is only about 20% more.

2) Heating and Cooling your house is a long-term expense, and I hate spending $200/month when it's not necessary.
I'd sacrifice a little interior square footage, and seriously OVERKILL the insulation R-value. Walls R-50, attic R1million, double/triple thermal breaks in the slab to minimize heat loss.
As for insulation type - I'd go back and forth between closed-cell foam insulation and boring fiberglass insulation. Closed-cell foam insulation (really good, seals air leaks, the closed-cell doesn't absorb water - but is very expensive and PERMANENTLY INSTALLED), The simpler boring fiberglass insulation can be built up extra thick for really high R-value, and it's still easily removable/replaceable - if needed.

3) As for plumbing - If you must run plumbing through the slab - all pipes must be sleeved for easy replacement.
And for me - PEX is the only pipe: flexible, durable, and freeze-resistant (won't break).
When designing the plumbing pipe runs, No pipe fittings hidden inside the walls. The only pipe fittings would be located under the cabinet for easier fitting replacement, if needed. The pipe runs must be continuous run from one location to the next. Then the pipe run continues to the next location. (a sequential run, not a parallel run) If you're smart, plan the pipe run(s) so the last pipe run is near the water closet (like a big circle). This would be good for installing a continuous hot-water circulation pump, - or during the winter you only have to drip the LAST faucet on the pipe circuit to protect all the faucets.
If possible, minimize running any plumbing along exterior walls (reduced freeze risks).

4) NO brick exterior. ...At least for in central Oklahoma, where it's only a matter of time before the house shifts and exterior cracks open up.


I have other ideas, but this is a good start....
What would you do?


Disclaimer: My house belongs in the other thread. : )

 

[Dumpstick]

If I build a house, which isn't likely, it'll be ICF.
Insulated Concrete Forms.

With gun ports. I'm tired of the crows and feral cats getting away whilst I open a door and jockey for position.

 

[emapples]

So the moans and groans of home ownership thread, [LINK HERE], got me wondering.....

It'd be interesting to hear all the ideas of how to build a better house. FUNCTIONAL STUFF.
I'm not talking the cosmetic stuff like granite countertops or the fancy light fixtures.
It's necessary for the ladies - but is secondary for this discussion.

If you were in charge to build yourself a house, with the intent of *NO/LITTLE* maintenance - and built to be easily *REPAIRABLE*.
Sure, ICF concrete houses sounds cool, and is tough as nails - but you can't move walls, easily expand the house, or repair it - if needed.
What would you use or how would you plan/design it?


I'll start:
1) Absolutely must have a standing-seam metal roof with No exposed fasteners, a true 50 yr roof. DO NOT use the agricultural metal roofs with exposed fasteners (the fasteners start coming loose after 10-15 years and start leaking). If I recall correctly, I think standing seam is only about 20% more.

2) Heating and Cooling your house is a long-term expense, and I hate spending $200/month when it's not necessary.
I'd sacrifice a little interior square footage, and seriously OVERKILL the insulation R-value. Walls R-50, attic R1million, double/triple thermal breaks in the slab to minimize heat loss.
As for insulation type - I'd go back and forth between closed-cell foam insulation and boring fiberglass insulation. Closed-cell foam insulation (really good, seals air leaks, the closed-cell doesn't absorb water - but is very expensive and PERMANENTLY INSTALLED), The simpler boring fiberglass insulation can be built up extra thick for really high R-value, and it's still easily removable/replaceable - if needed.

3) As for plumbing - If you must run plumbing through the slab - all pipes must be sleeved for easy replacement.
And for me - PEX is the only pipe: flexible, durable, and freeze-resistant (won't break).
When designing the plumbing pipe runs, No pipe fittings hidden inside the walls. The only pipe fittings would be located under the cabinet for easier fitting replacement, if needed. The pipe runs must be continuous run from one location to the next. Then the pipe run continues to the next location. (a sequential run, not a parallel run) If you're smart, plan the pipe run(s) so the last pipe run is near the water closet (like a big circle). This would be good for installing a continuous hot-water circulation pump, - or during the winter you only have to drip the LAST faucet on the pipe circuit to protect all the faucets.
If possible, minimize running any plumbing along exterior walls (reduced freeze risks).

4) NO brick exterior. ...At least for in central Oklahoma, where it's only a matter of time before the house shifts and exterior cracks open up.


I have other ideas, but this is a good start....
What would you do?


Disclaimer: My house belongs in the other thread. : )

Well how crazy do you want to get ? I have thought about it a lot 6 inch insulated walls, top notch windows triple pain, but the plumping should be on a crawl space for easy repair maintenance . And the walls should be removable easy maintenance just unscrew the panels and fix it and put it back on .

 

[rickm]

If i should build i would have NO interior walls just one big open space

 

[montesa]

I think about this a lot. I think this is a great design. You put the insulation on the outside. No need for Sheetrock. All your ducts are in a conditioned space.

 

[Parks 788]

I would love to have an ICF house. Or, build one by my design and specs but wouldn't be terrible happy if i bought one already built by someone else. As mentioned above, it makes for difficulty in renovating, etc. If I had it built it would be built the way I want it and the need for moving walls, etc wouldn't be necessary.

One very important but small item I'd absolutely want is a built in dog/pet wash station in the garage or laundry room. with handheld wash wand, drain etc that is ergonomic for the washer yet allows for a big dog to be easily washed. Minimum, three car garage plus a work area for doing small things with tool benches storage, etc. I'm pretty easy on what I want and would just prefer to let my wife make the decisions on how the house functions and is layed out. I only want to dictate the garage area and a separate shop building.

 

[dennishoddy]

If I ever build a home heated floors would be #1.
Our friends did this in a 2600 sq ft home that’s well insulated. Their electric bill has never been over $200 and they are total electric.

 

[TinkerTanker]

I'll add a couple. First, concrete walls sound great but this is Oklahoma. I've looked at concrete houses before and there's always a crack in a wall. Always. And try hanging a picture on the wall. Ain't happening.

Second, OFFSET 2x6 wall studs with california corners and sound deadening insulation in all walls, even the interior ones, especially the master bedroom and all bathrooms. With boom cars being so popular now you need more sound deadening to get a peaceful night's sleep.

 

[Snattlerake]

Instead of one circuit for the plumbing, I would install a manifold with individual shut off valves and an electric main shut off valve that can be operated by water bugs sending a signal to the main valve to close in case of leaks around sinks, tubs, toilets.

The driveway will have a separate manifold under it with circulating warm water for ice prevention or removal.

I would have a full basement that nobody has in Oklahoma except those who can afford them to be constructed correctly. My basement would have a drive in door that is not obvious for loading and unloading of machines, material, furniture, etc. The basement would have a living area, gaming area, indoor range, and a full kitchen.

It would have a large tornado shelter with a secret room for arms and booolits. I do NOT like houses that are ostentatious on the outside. I do like functionality and landscaping with plants and architecture like this.

My house would have at least 6 inch walls and either roped with MX or full conduit for electrical. I have and love a whole house generator so that is a priority. I would have uplights and downlights installed outside for the burglars to see they cannot get in. Every door would be steel but nicely appointed for asthetic purposes, wifey.

I would have a whole house fan for those three nice days we have in April and two in December.

I hate open floor plans because there is no privacy and the noise is horrendous. I would have a MacIntosh sound system configured throughout the house controllable by remotes or wall pads so I could listen to music or watch TV wherever I was.

I would run a POTS line, CAT 6 cable, a COAX, and a Multimode fiber to every receptical. I would make every receptical a dual with a USB port next to the regular receptical.

The attic would be fully floored with a attic elevator for storage. It will be 24 inches thick and insulated.

Ya done got me started. I aint even gotten to the garage.

 

[Catt57]

OK this is going to sound a bit crazy but hear me out. And this is assuming money is no object.

I would build it based on QUALITY construction of the early 1900's.

1. Framing - High quality, old growth, pressure treated pine for everything. (More resistant to rot and insects) All walls and ceilings framed in 2x6 and floor joists 2x8 minimum. Also complete with wind braces on the corners.
2. Walls - Plaster and wood lath. (Structurally stronger than the drywall construction of modern homes. It also provides a better sound barrier and insulation.) Ceilings would most likely be sheetrock for ease of installation.
3. Foundation - NO SLAB. Solid 10" to 12" thick concrete foundation. Raised at least 24". Reduces rot, provides better access to plumbing and HVAC, keeps water out in case of heavy rain/flooding. With closable foundation vents to provide air flow to allow it to dry it out during the wet months.
4. Stone facing 4"-6" thick PROPERLY INSTALLED on the outside. Never need to paint and extremely weather resistant. (I once had a house from the 1940's with this and with only the exception of a few days out of the year it helped with heating/cooling. It also was not cracked or falling apart.)
5. Designed to manage water - With large roof overhangs and eaves (24" overhang), drip edging, plenty of gutters, high foundation, steep roof, etc. Proper caulking all around. Quality 1/8" thick tar paper under the siding/facing stone (seriously, this stuff will outlast house wrap and is somewhat self sealing around nails/screws.)
6. Floors - Subfloor made from 1x8 lumber laid on the diagonal. True hardwood Oak floors (1" thick tongue and grove) laid over the entire floor before the walls are put up. (Strengthens the floor and helps prevent warping at the edges.)
7. Attic - Proper soffit and gable vents. Blown in insulation to the top of the 2x6 rafters.


Now, the modern changes I would make are:
1. Windows - Lots of them, and high quality aluminum or poly frame, double pane, UV blocking glass. With nail flange and caulked under and on top of the flange.
2. Central Heat and air of course.
3. Insulation - R-19 kraft faced fiberglass. Seams sealed with Tuck tape.
4. Plumbing - Pex is a must.
5. Network - Entire house would be wired with Cat 7. (Unfortunately plaster and lath can have negative effects on wifi signals.)
6. Electrical - Outlet on every wall and each within 8ft of the next. Quad outlets every 4 ft above the kitchen counter. Hard wired backup generator. Whole house UPS and Surge protection at the panel. 200amp service minimum.

And finally, CRAFTSMANSHIP! Whoever builds it had better be ready for me to nitpick the most minute details because it will be done right or else.


I'm sure I missed a lot but I think you get the idea.

There is a reason those old 100yr+ houses have lasted so long....