AR-15 conversion ?'s

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KurtM

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I would imagine a 1X8, 1X7.5,or a 1X7 would also work, not just a 1X9, for the SSS 60 grain cartridge.

No the Nordic unit isn't made with a 1X9 so no they are not worth having for any reason, so you are absolutely right, no one make a usefull dedicated upper.

There are several Folding stocks that are available for the AR style lowers, usually in conjunction with someones piston system and of these I like the Para-Ordanance the best, strongest and sturdiest, and their piston gun comes in a 1X9. Perhapse you could get a new carrier for your upper, clean out all the lead that you weren't worried about and sell it off, get the Para and put you conversion in it and you would be all set. I did notice that the Para upper is on sale right now but I can't remember where. Maybe someone else that saw them could chime in and tell you where to get them. KurtM
 
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Kurt, you very smart man!

I would imagine a 1X8, 1X7.5,or a 1X7 would also work, not just a 1X9, for the SSS 60 grain cartridge.

Yes, sir, indeed - but I don't know *at what point* this will "over-stabilize" the standard 30-40 grain fare, if ever. All I know right now is that 1 in 9 does still work with standard ammo.


There are several Folding stocks that are available for the AR style lowers, usually in conjunction with someones piston system and of these I like the Para-Ordanance the best, strongest and sturdiest, and their piston gun comes in a 1X9.

Is that so? Very helpful; thank you. Looking for the "lowest one" - to get a lower line of sight - one that would NOT work on an AR15 DI, due to the buffer tube. Something that sweeps down, akin to the FN-SCAR stock or similar.

Perhaps you could get a new carrier for your upper, clean out all the lead that you weren't worried about and sell it off, get the Para and put you conversion in it and you would be all set. I did notice that the Para upper is on sale right now but I can't remember where. Maybe someone else that saw them could chime in and tell you where to get them.

That's actually a very good idea; haven't thought of that. And when / if I do ever switch back to a centerfire rifle, I won't have to be concerned with that fouled up gas port.

No the Nordic unit isn't made with a 1X9 so no they are not worth having for any reason, so you are absolutely right, no one make a usefull dedicated upper.

Yes, I thought you'd see it my way. :D Not saying they're not useful; just that they're equally useful (roughly) as a Marlin 60, and yet only 5 times the price! In all seriousness though why in the name of all that is holy wouldn't they use a tighter twist? I just don't get the appeal of the 1 in 16 twist. Those SSSs are the shiz-nizzle, and a lot of people like to shoot them - they give you a bullet which is half again as heavy as a .22 mag bullet, twice as heavy as a .22lr bullet, and very suppressable. No, you cannot get through a mag without 1 or 2 stoppages, but still, the penetration and performance of them is well worth that tradeoff.
 

KurtM

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I can assure you that the 1X7 twist barrels will do a fine job with the 30-40 grain bullets from personal experience.

I didn't make the upper so please don't rail at me. Instead of wondering why they don't use a 1X9 call or e-mail them and get an answer for yourself. Who knows maybe they will change their production run for just one specialty cartridge. nordiccomp.com
 

Beercules

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First off...get one...they are well worth the money. Spikes, CMMG, or Ciener with BDM mags. I currently run a Spikes (and love it) and previously wore out a Ciener. Both of them run (or ran in the case of the Ciener) like sewing machines after they had a 15 minute polish job. I've shot the drop in kits with relative accuracy out of my 1x7 11.5" and 20" rifles at 200 yds.

They are dirty and you'll have to clean them and the gun much more than a 5.56-only gun.

I have experienced a blocked gas port in my 11.5" SBR running a suppressor and conversion. I was lazy and didn't run 5.56 in the rifle for well over 5000rds of .22. The FSB had to be removed to clear the gas port and the gas tube had to be replaced. Just make sure to run a few rounds of 5.56 after you use the conversion kit and you'll be good to go.
 

Wormydog1724

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Now that is an interesting idea. I wonder hard that would be to do or how much to have done?

My polish job on my Ceiner was rubbing steel wool on the rails. Thats it. It ran about 95% before that now its 100% if all the cartridges are good. I have heard of some using a dremel tool and a polishing thingy similar to what they polish rocks with(?). I have no experience with that but the steel wool did just fine for me.

Also to add I run mine dry as a bone. I always heard to run them wet wet wet. But that just created a CRUD of black gunk that was nasty and everywhere. Polishing it and running it dry has its advantages. It still gets dirty but not AS. I am not a firearms expert and I am sure a whole bunch of people will say running it dry is baaaad, but it has worked for 3,000+ with no signs of wear or tear and if it does break, I can afford another one from the money it has saved shooting .22lr instead of .223.

I bought 5,500 rounds of .22lr from wal mart for $165.
5,500 rounds of 5.56/.223 is almost $2,000. :yikes2:

Thats a savings of nearly 1.8 billion dollars. (not a math major but maybe a future politician)
 

Bobrob

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I never was able to see any acceptable groups with a CMMG SS conversion, too much free bore I believe.

I built a dedicated upper, using the CMMG bolt and rails. The barrel blank I used has a 1 in 16" 6 groove rifling. Accuracy is much better.

I am surprised no one has mentioned out of battery events with these conversions.
 

Beercules

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My polish job on my Ceiner was rubbing steel wool on the rails. Thats it. It ran about 95% before that now its 100% if all the cartridges are good. I have heard of some using a dremel tool and a polishing thingy similar to what they polish rocks with(?). I have no experience with that but the steel wool did just fine for me.

Also to add I run mine dry as a bone. I always heard to run them wet wet wet. But that just created a CRUD of black gunk that was nasty and everywhere. Polishing it and running it dry has its advantages. It still gets dirty but not AS. I am not a firearms expert and I am sure a whole bunch of people will say running it dry is baaaad, but it has worked for 3,000+ with no signs of wear or tear and if it does break, I can afford another one from the money it has saved shooting .22lr instead of .223.

I bought 5,500 rounds of .22lr from wal mart for $165.
5,500 rounds of 5.56/.223 is almost $2,000. :yikes2:

Thats a savings of nearly 1.8 billion dollars. (not a math major but maybe a future politician)

I used a Dremel and jeweler's rouge on both of mine and I run them both dry. I polished all the wear surfaces, feed ramp, and chamber. I was using a teflon dry film lube for a while, but noticed no difference running it completely dry.
 

gwkoch

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I ended up buying the CMMG 22lr kit today. I took it to the range and ran about 50 rounds through it. It works great! Talk about a cheap and fun plinker! Thanks for all the info everyone!
 

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