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K frame S&W are pretty good. Ideal size for me.
K or L frames are hard to beat. The grip on an L frame is exactly the same one as on a K; the rest of the gun is beefier.
For lots of .357 Mag use, or significant amounts of .38 Spl +P, L frames are much stronger and not that much bigger than a K frame. If you are going to only get one L frame, then go for a 4" 686-4. It has the best blend of engineering changes, metal quality and shootability. Later dashes have the lawyer-mandated softer heat treated steel; read won't last near as long. The earlier no dash or -1, -2 and -3 aren't too bad; the -4 is better IMO.
For occasional .357 Mag use, get a 19-5 or a 66-3. They are happiest with 158 gr bullets. The 66-4 and later have inferior metal or design features. the 66-1 or -2 isn't a bad choice. The 66 no dash has a different cylinder gas ring arrangement which may cause gun lock-up with quick use of a bunch a .357 mag ammo.
For .38 Spl use, including occasional +P, a model 15 or a 67 is hard to beat. A 15-3 is a good variant, as is a 67-1 or -2. Avoid the all SS rear sight model 66/67's for shooters. The sights are near impossible to see in bright sunlight. Collectors favor these early SS-sight 66/67's too, pushing the prices up.
Use of other than 158 gr bullets in K frames, in high pressure loadings, has cracked out a number of their forcing cones. There is a flat at 6 o'clock on these barrels; always check a used one for a crack in this location.
All my preferred dash variants have the hammer mounted firing pin. All are also MIM free.
The N frame .357 guns are really big and have a cylinder less robust than an L-frame. The Model 28 is a fun gun, but not a good choice for a competition gun. They have come into their own as collector pieces, with a nice 4" running $450 and up. Shooter-grade 28's, with reblue, rust spots, etc can be had for around $375 or so. A 27 will start at $600 for a rough one and go up, way up.
These are my idea of "good" prices for a nice, gently-used 4" revolver, one that is mechanically sound, but lacks box, tools, etc. It may not have the factory original grips; you'll replace the grips anyway on a shooter, so it does not matter. You can expect to pay around $500 for a decent L frame, around $450 for a 66 and just a tad less for a 19. A 67 will run around $375 and a 15 blue somewhere around $325 to $350. You can easily pay more for all. Nickel will add a good bit more, as well are more maintenance. I definitely prefer SS over nickel.
For lots of .357 Mag use, or significant amounts of .38 Spl +P, L frames are much stronger and not that much bigger than a K frame. If you are going to only get one L frame, then go for a 4" 686-4. It has the best blend of engineering changes, metal quality and shootability. Later dashes have the lawyer-mandated softer heat treated steel; read won't last near as long. The earlier no dash or -1, -2 and -3 aren't too bad; the -4 is better IMO.
For occasional .357 Mag use, get a 19-5 or a 66-3. They are happiest with 158 gr bullets. The 66-4 and later have inferior metal or design features. the 66-1 or -2 isn't a bad choice. The 66 no dash has a different cylinder gas ring arrangement which may cause gun lock-up with quick use of a bunch a .357 mag ammo.
For .38 Spl use, including occasional +P, a model 15 or a 67 is hard to beat. A 15-3 is a good variant, as is a 67-1 or -2. Avoid the all SS rear sight model 66/67's for shooters. The sights are near impossible to see in bright sunlight. Collectors favor these early SS-sight 66/67's too, pushing the prices up.
Use of other than 158 gr bullets in K frames, in high pressure loadings, has cracked out a number of their forcing cones. There is a flat at 6 o'clock on these barrels; always check a used one for a crack in this location.
All my preferred dash variants have the hammer mounted firing pin. All are also MIM free.
The N frame .357 guns are really big and have a cylinder less robust than an L-frame. The Model 28 is a fun gun, but not a good choice for a competition gun. They have come into their own as collector pieces, with a nice 4" running $450 and up. Shooter-grade 28's, with reblue, rust spots, etc can be had for around $375 or so. A 27 will start at $600 for a rough one and go up, way up.
These are my idea of "good" prices for a nice, gently-used 4" revolver, one that is mechanically sound, but lacks box, tools, etc. It may not have the factory original grips; you'll replace the grips anyway on a shooter, so it does not matter. You can expect to pay around $500 for a decent L frame, around $450 for a 66 and just a tad less for a 19. A 67 will run around $375 and a 15 blue somewhere around $325 to $350. You can easily pay more for all. Nickel will add a good bit more, as well are more maintenance. I definitely prefer SS over nickel.
Like Buzzdraw said, it's hard to beat the K or L frames, I wouldn't part with any of mine. Python has been mentioned but I didn't see anything about the .38 Diamondback (if you can find one) and one of my best loved guns is my old Colt Trooper MK III. It's old but it seems I just don't miss with the thing. They don't seem to be well known and can be had for reasonable prices and I have seen them in both 4 and 6 inch flavors.
This is sage advice.
SW ftw, but Ruger makes some nice revolvers also. I had an old SS Security 6.
Although I prefer S&W the security-six ,that I used to own, was an excellent gun(indestructible). They were issued to the Border Patrol at one time(I believe in the '70s).
