Here are a few things I've picked up along the way reloading on the LNL.
First, get some light in your work area. This is a 9 LED strip I have shining down and sideways in the shellplate area. I used to make these, but there are plenty of sources out there now. I saw Hornady had a 6 LED for $15 at Bass Pro.
Also notice the cone shaped protrusion in the die area. That is a universal PTX from Powder Funnels. One PTX for all calibers.
My brass gets a light mist of Hornady One Shot laying on its side on a cookie sheet before going in the brass hopper.
Add a Dillion roller handle. I used a few extra washers to support it and gave a slight turn to position it to my liking.
Install a low primer alarm. This one happens to be a RCBS, but most brands should work.
Make a case shield to keep those cases from bouncing off the shell plate area. This is 1/2" "SilverLine" PVC from Lowes with a slit to fit over the case feeder tube and notched to fit over the V block.
Use the #6 V Block for 9mm. Add felt to all of your V blocks. This will eliminate case tipping as the case enters the shell plate.
Place a thin slug or washer under the primer punch. Makes it much easier to seat primers, eliminates high primers, and prevents the press from getting a divot where the punch contacts the press.
Use an old water bottle to catch spent primers.
Get a primer tube loader. I made this one out of an old Lee hand primer tray (not made anymore), but some are having success with the Vibra Prime or Dillon $$.
My die setup. I use the EGW undersize sizing/depriming die (some say the same as the Lee "U" die), Hornady powder drop with PTX expander, Hornady Powder Cop, Redding Competition Seating Die, and the Lee Taper Crimp Die (NOT the Factory Crimp Die). Cannot say enough good things about the EGW die, the PTX, Redding seater, and Lee Taper Crimp die. I've tried several and these just plain work.
Here is 90 secs of it all working together. NOTE: I look in EVERY SINGLE CASE before placing a bullet on top of it. After every 3-400 rounds I'll use compressed air to blow the entire shell plate area clean of powder and bits of debris.
First, get some light in your work area. This is a 9 LED strip I have shining down and sideways in the shellplate area. I used to make these, but there are plenty of sources out there now. I saw Hornady had a 6 LED for $15 at Bass Pro.
Also notice the cone shaped protrusion in the die area. That is a universal PTX from Powder Funnels. One PTX for all calibers.
My brass gets a light mist of Hornady One Shot laying on its side on a cookie sheet before going in the brass hopper.
Add a Dillion roller handle. I used a few extra washers to support it and gave a slight turn to position it to my liking.
Install a low primer alarm. This one happens to be a RCBS, but most brands should work.
Make a case shield to keep those cases from bouncing off the shell plate area. This is 1/2" "SilverLine" PVC from Lowes with a slit to fit over the case feeder tube and notched to fit over the V block.
Use the #6 V Block for 9mm. Add felt to all of your V blocks. This will eliminate case tipping as the case enters the shell plate.
Place a thin slug or washer under the primer punch. Makes it much easier to seat primers, eliminates high primers, and prevents the press from getting a divot where the punch contacts the press.
Use an old water bottle to catch spent primers.
Get a primer tube loader. I made this one out of an old Lee hand primer tray (not made anymore), but some are having success with the Vibra Prime or Dillon $$.
My die setup. I use the EGW undersize sizing/depriming die (some say the same as the Lee "U" die), Hornady powder drop with PTX expander, Hornady Powder Cop, Redding Competition Seating Die, and the Lee Taper Crimp Die (NOT the Factory Crimp Die). Cannot say enough good things about the EGW die, the PTX, Redding seater, and Lee Taper Crimp die. I've tried several and these just plain work.
Here is 90 secs of it all working together. NOTE: I look in EVERY SINGLE CASE before placing a bullet on top of it. After every 3-400 rounds I'll use compressed air to blow the entire shell plate area clean of powder and bits of debris.
Last edited by a moderator: