Hornady LNL AP Tips/Tricks/Tweaks

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tul9033

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Here are a few things I've picked up along the way reloading on the LNL.

First, get some light in your work area. This is a 9 LED strip I have shining down and sideways in the shellplate area. I used to make these, but there are plenty of sources out there now. I saw Hornady had a 6 LED for $15 at Bass Pro.
Also notice the cone shaped protrusion in the die area. That is a universal PTX from Powder Funnels. One PTX for all calibers.
My brass gets a light mist of Hornady One Shot laying on its side on a cookie sheet before going in the brass hopper.
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Add a Dillion roller handle. I used a few extra washers to support it and gave a slight turn to position it to my liking.
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Install a low primer alarm. This one happens to be a RCBS, but most brands should work.
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Make a case shield to keep those cases from bouncing off the shell plate area. This is 1/2" "SilverLine" PVC from Lowes with a slit to fit over the case feeder tube and notched to fit over the V block.
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Use the #6 V Block for 9mm. Add felt to all of your V blocks. This will eliminate case tipping as the case enters the shell plate.
i73.photobucket.com_albums_i204_tul9033_IMG_0799_zps23cf57d3.jpg


Place a thin slug or washer under the primer punch. Makes it much easier to seat primers, eliminates high primers, and prevents the press from getting a divot where the punch contacts the press.
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Use an old water bottle to catch spent primers.
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Get a primer tube loader. I made this one out of an old Lee hand primer tray (not made anymore), but some are having success with the Vibra Prime or Dillon $$.
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My die setup. I use the EGW undersize sizing/depriming die (some say the same as the Lee "U" die), Hornady powder drop with PTX expander, Hornady Powder Cop, Redding Competition Seating Die, and the Lee Taper Crimp Die (NOT the Factory Crimp Die). Cannot say enough good things about the EGW die, the PTX, Redding seater, and Lee Taper Crimp die. I've tried several and these just plain work.
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Here is 90 secs of it all working together. NOTE: I look in EVERY SINGLE CASE before placing a bullet on top of it. After every 3-400 rounds I'll use compressed air to blow the entire shell plate area clean of powder and bits of debris.
 
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alank2

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tul9033 - don't you need to add one of my products to your setup! :wink2: :wink2: :wink2:

I've got a compact round counter that can count rounds, rounds per hour, and much more:

[Broken External Image]
 

dennishoddy

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My LNL is the basic unit without the bullet or case feeder. The only problem I've EVER ran into is getting some powder flakes from max load .223 into the primer slide, and then it won't seat a primer. Easily fixed with a shot of compressed air, and move along.

I use a 1/8" aluminum rod in the primer holder with a witness mark on it to see when getting low on primers.
 

ASP785

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My LNL is the basic unit without the bullet or case feeder. The only problem I've EVER ran into is getting some powder flakes from max load .223 into the primer slide, and then it won't seat a primer. Easily fixed with a shot of compressed air, and move along.

I use a 1/8" aluminum rod in the primer holder with a witness mark on it to see when getting low on primers.

I don't really have any issues either. I do not have the case or bullet feeder. I stick the white plastic rod that came with the press into the primer feed tube. When the primers run out this rod 'jams' up the primer slide and holds it back creating a visual indicator. Although even without this, anyone should be able to feel their cases not being primed.
 

GeneW

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Man I am jealous! You got 2 cars in the garage and still had room to do this! Wow!

What was the vibrating thing you were using on the primer tray? Did that come from the, ahem, adult store?
If so, I bet they never thought of that use!

Anyway, awesome setup and awesome video, thanks for sharing.
 

tul9033

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That there is a "personal massager". They do indeed have many uses! The primers seem to really like it.
Thanks for appreciating my setup. It works great for me.

Man I am jealous! You got 2 cars in the garage and still had room to do this! Wow!

What was the vibrating thing you were using on the primer tray? Did that come from the, ahem, adult store?
If so, I bet they never thought of that use!

Anyway, awesome setup and awesome video, thanks for sharing.
 

Maverick1911

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Great setup...that washer trick is something I definitely need to try...so simple why didn't I think of that? I have had some primers I have had to go back and reseat on a single stage press to get them low enough. Any particular reason you prefer the taler crimp over the factory crimp die?
 

tul9033

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I just want the bell removed which the taper crimp dies does nicely. The FCD has a carbide sizer inside the die that post-sizes the cartridge while it is crimped. Before I knew better I used the Hornady roll crimp in the seater die which crushed cases and resulted in quite a few rounds that wouldn't chamber.
I'm not a big Lee fan but, the U die and taper crimp are a great combination. Modern Reloading is also a great book for some load data and basic reloading info.

Great setup...that washer trick is something I definitely need to try...so simple why didn't I think of that? I have had some primers I have had to go back and reseat on a single stage press to get them low enough. Any particular reason you prefer the taler crimp over the factory crimp die?
 

No.343

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I don't have any high tech tips, but here are two things I did. I loaded ten primers then marked the fiber rod. I made another mark when it was empty. I can make a pretty good estimate of how many primers I have left by looking at those two marks. I ground off about half of the lip on one of the die holders with my belt sander. This allows me to use some of my old Lee taper crimp dies. I could use them before, but the locking ring was not engaged. Since the die body is so short I had to screw the die in just past where the locking ring could be engaged.
 

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