You can buy airtight reflectors and foam seals for where they meet the drywall. You don’t have to replace the actual recessed fixture with an airtight fixture. You do need to make sure they are IC rated (insulation contact) or you have to build boxes around them in your attic to prevent insulation for touching the cans. Retrofit LED’s should eliminate that as a necessity since they don’t generate nearly as much heat but I would not trust that for sure.
I don't know of any internet horror stories my wife has read on the internet, but she and I have talked with people with personal experience who told us they have to run a dehumidifier to reduce moisture. The heat pump is recommended woth foam insulation to help draw moisture out. From what I've read you are correct about the insulation installer being the most important factor regardless of the type of insulation. Most problems that arise from foam insulation seem to result from faulty installation.
Foam in the walls should be r22 vs fiberglass in 6" walls is r19, but the foam seals drafts.
Foam doesn’t create any moisture. If you have moisture in your home after foam insulation was installed, then you have a moisture source issue. Improper venting and/or no whole home energy recovery ventilation system which should have been part of the plans from the beginning.
My terminology could probably be better. Condensation seems to be the issue due, as you have pointed out, to insufficient ventilation. I'm planning to have an external air source for the fireplace. What ventilation options should I be looking at?
Thanks. Depending on installation cost that looks like a great addition. Especially since my wife suffers from allergies.
Man I dunno.
Not sure I'd spend a lot extra trying to make it airtight, and then have to spend still more to ensure adequate ventilation and humidity control (which also creates more systems & their maintenance costs).
Just a thought. Your call.
Not sure I'd spend a lot extra trying to make it airtight, and then have to spend still more to ensure adequate ventilation and humidity control (which also creates more systems & their maintenance costs).
Just a thought. Your call.
It recovers the energy as it ventilates. It’s way better than uncontrolled air coming through every crevice in the house, unaccounted for and unconditioned.Man I dunno.
Not sure I'd spend a lot extra trying to make it airtight, and then have to spend still more to ensure adequate ventilation and humidity control (which also creates more systems & their maintenance costs).
Just a thought. Your call.
I have both a heat pump, a standard ac unit, and a gas fired furnace. The heat pump cools efficiently and produces decent heat during "shoulder season", however when it gets "cold"; I switch it to emergency and run gas through the winter. With our gas v. electric costs it works out to a reduced bill. Another thing I think gets lost, is that the heat pump, while producing air temps above ambient, tend to feel cooler than gas heat. Might be perception but I prefer the real warmth of a gas or wood furnace when it's cold out.
Concerning insulation I think its a pay me now or pay me later kind of thing. There is a definite payback period then it's money in the bank.
Concerning insulation I think its a pay me now or pay me later kind of thing. There is a definite payback period then it's money in the bank.
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