Car guys - should I do a top-half rebuild on my GM 5.3L?

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SlugSlinger

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With that many miles, I’d do a full rebuild.

I have a close friend who owns a machine shop in Catoosa. He’s also a Tulsa firefighter. He built this motor: https://www.okshooters.com/threads/4-000-hp-motor.253443/

He has 30 years of experience and is very knowledgeable all the way around rebuilding motors and his specialty is head work.

He sent me the message below a while back when a coworker was asking about rebuilding a newer 5.3 with the oil pressure controlled lifters I asked about. I’m not sure if the pricing is the same as yours, but I sent him a message and asked.

You would need to find someone to R&R the motor, but this guy is one of the best with building motors.

“The engine kit with cam and lifters, piston and rings, rod and main bearings , cam bearing , timing set, oil pump and complete gasket set are around 1400.00 my start out price to rebuild is 850.00 that's tear down and clean, bore to first over size, resize rods, valve job and surface heads, clean for assembly and assembly of long block.
That dose not included grinding the crank, balance the rotating assembly, and decking the block. These are only done as needed.”
 

tRidiot

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Haha. Well... alot of what he said there reads to me like an MRI report might read to many of you guys. lol. If I decide to work on doing this myself, there's a TON of research I am going to have to be doing...
 

Glock 40

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I don't think Active Fuel Management was until 2005 and later so you should be good. If you were to do a full rebuild you will still need a set of used or rebuilt non castech heads. They are all over ebay for around $500 bucks for a pair rebuilt and tested or cheaper for pull offs.
 

SlugSlinger

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I forgot to mention he does all the work himself with his own equipment. You can ask your mechanic what he’d charge for the R&R. Remove & Replace.
 

tRidiot

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Right... when I look into getting a junk yard or salvage motor to rebuild, finding non-706 heads may be the issue. If I have to buy separate new (or reman) heads anyways, I might as well just rebuild the one I've got, I would think. I mean, IF I can find a nice low-mileage one, maybe so, but I don't know what my chances of that are.
 

OKfella

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Slug, my 07 Tahoe has AFM, and it got really wonky a few months ago. Around the time I rolled 200k on the truck.

Anyway, I bought a unit from Range Technology that bypasses the AFM, plugs right into the OBD2 port. Seems to use more fuel, but so far so good.

Just mentioning, in case anyone else has this issue.
 

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