Anybody restore an automobile

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SlugSlinger

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Apr 14, 2009
Messages
7,825
Reaction score
7,621
Location
Owasso
What is the best way to start? Media blasting to metal or sanding whats there?

I am interested in prepping an auto body and frame for paint.

My inclination is blasting it down to bare metal, but that my be extreme, not necessary, and cause more work than is needed.

I am trying to get back to a factory finish, not a million dollar classic car finish.

Anyone been through a restoration process?
 

Rod Snell

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
2,555
Reaction score
362
Location
Altus
Yes, and I'll never do another as rusty as what I started with on a 67 Dodge RT.
I'd start with a complete listing of all the mechanical issues. Suspension, steering, brakes. Drivetrain!
Then get a realistic idea of what the sheet metal problems are. This is where I missed the boat, and had to replace huge sections when we got into the sanding.
Had to get a donor car. Pain in the posterior.
My car was a $40k appraisal Dodge RT when finished but I sold a 73 Chrysler in better starting shape because it was not a specialty car. Not worth restoring.
The reality is the cost of restoration is higher than the cost of a clean used car. If you can find what you want.
 

MR.T.

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Oct 15, 2008
Messages
2,823
Reaction score
8,595
Location
Newkirk
Of course I do.
As of now I have restored or fixed up 3 vehicles, & currently restoring another, & have 3 more on the list after that one. & these are personal keepers & are not to be sold.

I would not suggest sand-blasting, as that can distort & cause waves or ripples in the sheetmetal. I have however allowed sand-blasting done on areas that are not largely flat or exposed areas, like firewall, door jams, floorboards, and structure parts like the frame & suspension parts.
If you want to blast the whole car, soda blasting would be friendlier to the metal, but then you have more prep work after it is blasted before you can spray primer.
I personally just use a rough grit paper like 36 grit & an orbital sander & go to town to get to bare metal.

There is a newer process called Dustless blasting, that uses high pressure water with the media to blast the paint off & cause of the water, it helps against the possibility of sheet metal being distorted. I haven't been able to use anything like this, but you may check into that.

Good luck with your restoration
 

Okie4570

Sharpshooter
Staff Member
Special Hen Moderator Moderator
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
22,922
Reaction score
24,753
Location
NWOK
What vehicle is it, what's your motivation level, what's your time frame, what's your budget, what's your capabilities, what's your work facility like? Somethings I've learned over the years and from others....

-When tearing it down, label parts and containers and keep those systems together
-Learn about any body bracing that may need to occur to keep the body from bending or twisting when it's removed from the frame
-Sandblasting warps body panels, body blasting really has a ton of factors depending on rust, etc.
-Plan on spending more than you though you would
-Plan on it taking longer than you thought it would :)

I've seen some really nice early broncos that were running and driving, torn down to pieces, owner looses interest, funding and time and they end of selling them for pennies on the dollar................
 

swampratt

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
12,719
Reaction score
19,274
Location
yukon ok
I like to drive my vehicles so I make them reliable and worthy and as many here know I am a bit tight when it comes to spending money on myself.

My 57 chevy I have less about 4K in it and the 47 dodge truck about 500 bucks less than that.
They both pull my pontoon to the lake or do burnouts and have ran down the 1/4 mile many times.

I do not build show cars I build drivers..I have been offered 30,000 for my truck..Not for sale.So the guy said then tell me a price because I want it. Not for sale I said.
Many have wanted to by my 57.. it is not for sale.

I have not tore one down to the frame but I have spent hours under my vehicles with a power washer and putty knoves and wire wheels and brushes. Then it all gets painted or rubberized undercoated.

Just depends on if you want a daily driver or a pretty day driver.
My stuff gets driven in snow and salted roads and mud and gravel roads.
All that prep and pretty will not live long.
A little ice got on my truck a few times.
 

Attachments

  • 002.JPG
    002.JPG
    102.3 KB · Views: 237
  • 57 project.jpg
    57 project.jpg
    54 KB · Views: 231
  • 57 painted fresh.jpg
    57 painted fresh.jpg
    17.9 KB · Views: 214
  • 47 dodge iced.jpg
    47 dodge iced.jpg
    19.4 KB · Views: 232

Aries

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Feb 1, 2019
Messages
5,538
Reaction score
8,098
Location
Sapulpa
I have a 1982 Ford Lariat F150 that I would sell if anyone is looking for something to restore. I'd make a deal, as I'd rather see it restored than junked. It runs, and has just a little minor body damage, no rust that I remember. I'll take some pics if anyone is interested.
 

SlugSlinger

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Apr 14, 2009
Messages
7,825
Reaction score
7,621
Location
Owasso
Bare metal will rust quickly. Don’t just decide to blast it on your own. Decide who is going to do the paint and body and see what they think you need to do.

Oh yea. WHAT IS IT YOUR WORKING ON?

I want to do the work myself, except for the blasting if I go that route.

I am debating on doing this project or selling it and buy a complete, unmolested version. The problem is finding one that is rust free. I’m looking west of Texas to find one if this sells.

This one has very little rust and was local is why I bought it.

3D777061-91F2-4B22-B439-93AEDC68FDF0.jpeg
 

Okie4570

Sharpshooter
Staff Member
Special Hen Moderator Moderator
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
22,922
Reaction score
24,753
Location
NWOK
Good thing about a Jeep is that nearly every item is reproduced or able to find original parts without too much trouble. Drivetrain is easy and simple to work on/rebuild also.
 

mr ed

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
6,997
Reaction score
4,834
Location
Tulsa
What vehicle is it, what's your motivation level, what's your time frame, what's your budget, what's your capabilities, what's your work facility like? Somethings I've learned over the years and from others....

-When tearing it down, label parts and containers and keep those systems together
-Learn about any body bracing that may need to occur to keep the body from bending or twisting when it's removed from the frame
-Sandblasting warps body panels, body blasting really has a ton of factors depending on rust, etc.
-Plan on spending more than you though you would
-Plan on it taking longer than you thought it would :)

I've seen some really nice early broncos that were running and driving, torn down to pieces, owner looses interest, funding and time and they end of selling them for pennies on the dollar................

This! I've got a Willys 1953 M38A1 Jeep complete tear down and rebuild everything but the body back in the late 90's. Then got married and it's sat in a storage shed 18 years waiting to have body finished. I retire in 2 weeks and this is going to be my next project. Ha Ha! Wanna make any bets? The wife's always got plans for me.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom