M1 Carbine failure to feed

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OKC_Jim

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Hey Guys,

I could use a little help with a problem I am having with an M1 carbine. Occasionally it will fail to feed correctly. Sometimes the bolt goes completely over the next round in the magazine. Other times the round has started to feed but the bolt is smashing into the middle of the round. I would estimate this happens about every 1 out of 15 rounds. My carbine is well lubricated. It has this issue with two different USGI magazines. I have also tried two different brands of ammo and swapping operating slide springs. So, two different magazines, two different ammos, two different springs, and always well lubed, and nothing has helped.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Jim
 

Buzzdraw

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What brand receiver? If everything else original GI, was it GI put together? Is the carbine VERY used? Is ammo factory or reloads? What bullet nose shape?

Thanks in advance for your answers; maybe we can help.
 

flatwins

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Interested in this thread. I have a Inland acting up too but it's been a few years since I've fired and can't remember exactly what it was doing. Hope to run it this weekend and test it.
 

Glocktogo

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I had that problem with my M1 carbine when I first got it. A combination of worn mag springs and a worn recoil spring was the culprit. I ordered a complete Wolff M1 spring kit from Brownell's and it functioned flawlessly thereafter.
 

OKC_Jim

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Little update guys,

I have the carbine stripped. Turns out the gas cylinder nut is loose. It is still staked in position so I can't get it out, but it does wiggle a bit. I'm betting this is the problem? Anybody know how to tighten it? Do I need the special wrench, or is there another way.

To answer a few of the questions you guys have asked, the receiver is Saginaw. The rest of the carbine is a mix of USGI parts. The carbine is in pretty nice shape. It isn't in overly used shape. The ammo is Remington and Monarch FMJ 110 grain .30 Carbine ammo with the standard round nose shape of typical .30 carbine ammo. I have tried two different USGI mags, but I haven't changed to springs in either of these. I have also changed the operating slide spring, but it hasn't made a difference.

Anyway, I'm thinking it is this loose nut. Not sure how I missed that. I've had it apart several times. Now to see if I can tighten it without the wrench, or find a wrench.

Jim
 

LDA.45

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Yes, it takes a special wrench which I have.
Glad to load it to you....send me a PM if interested.
The plug has really fine threads, so you have to be very careful.
 

OKC_Jim

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Yes, it takes a special wrench which I have.
Glad to load it to you....send me a PM if interested.
The plug has really fine threads, so you have to be very careful.

Thanks for the offer. It turns out a friend of mine has one. He is lending it to me tomorrow. Also, I went ahead and ordered one. A guy can never have too many tools, right? lol

Thanks for the offer though. If something doesn't go correctly and I still find myself needing one, I'll let you know. Is there anything special I need to know about re-staking it after I tighten it? Actually, since I'll be fiddling with it anyway, I plan on removing it so I can clean the gas port in the barrel. So, anything I need to know about the whole proceedure?


Jim
 

LDA.45

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It's not recommended to remove due the cross threading possibility.
But if the threads or piston are worn due to the piston bouncing around, it might be a good
thing to replace it.
Also no cleaning is needed because 30000 psi cleans out the crud pretty good.
 

mr ed

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might examine and replace the mag catch if necessary to hold the mag higher or the slot where the mag catch goes may need massaging to tighten too much slop.
 

OKC_Jim

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might examine and replace the mag catch if necessary to hold the mag higher or the slot where the mag catch goes may need massaging to tighten too much slop.

Along with the wrench, I ordered a spare mag catch.

If the slot needs to be massaged, how do I do that?
 

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