Yet another safe question.

7stw · Jan 31, 2015

I moved mine (twice) it weighs a little over 900 lbs three guys and some 20" pieces of schedule 40 PVC as rollers. I wouldn't want another one in a closet (I have a small one in one now) it makes it as pain to get in and out of. If I had more guns in the smaller one I'd move it elsewhere. Primarily keep valuables and such in the small one now so it's nice for that since I don't get I. It often. The PVC is the way to go when moving a safe to me.

Sent from NSA wire tapped device.

Brad A · Jan 31, 2015

"Someone I know" has a Bear safe in his garage and painted it to look like a refrigerator plus glued a refrigerator handle on it. Anyone driving by who may glance in while "his" garage door is up would not know it wasn't a refrigerator. And Bear safes are OKC made!

rawhide · Jan 31, 2015

Put a large piece of carpet under it in the truck so you can slide it out easily. Like the pvc as rollers mentioned above I used 1" wood dowels to move my Bear safe. Best to put plywood down to move over carpet or protect wood floors. The dowels are cheap and work great.

dennishoddy · Jan 31, 2015

Nifrost said:
Is is this the stack on light you're referring to?

http://www.amazon.com/Stack-On-SPAL-300-Motion-Sensitive-Security/dp/B007J3E9PI

How does it do with batteries? I got a couple of liberty LED lights when I bought my safe, but was unimpressed with battey life. The liberty lights mounted with pins that you push into the interior walls. How/where do the stack on lights mount? Thanks

I've only had mine for a couple of weeks, but I'm in the safe almost daily, sometimes more than once. The batteries seem to be holding up well so far. Its LED's so battery drain is less of an issue than incandescent.
It mounts two ways. It comes with a back plate that slides sideways to come off and expose the battery compartment. The back plate can be screwed into where its to be mounted, or they also include some pre cut Velcro that fits the back plate, and what ever surface you want to attach it to.

Note the bolded part. Reading the customer reviews, some couldn't figure out how to get the back plate off.

dlbleak said:
found the light on ebay from opticsplanet. it was $27.53 including shipping. picked one up for my safe. thanks for the tip dennis.

Dang, I paid $20 for mine at tractor supply. They were having a storewide sale, but I don't remember them being $27+.
My wife likes it so well, she wants me to install some in the Kitchen cabinets.
The LED pods are directional as well. They pivot to put the light where you want it. Not much adjustment, but enough to really help.

$20 at Walmart.com too. free shipping if you pick it up at a store.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stack-On-Safe-Light-Motion-Sensitive-LED-Light/20753911

Mr.Glock · Jan 31, 2015

I am going to give a couple of them a try. Wally World has em enroute!

gfercaks33 · Jan 31, 2015

rawhide said:
Put a large piece of carpet under it in the truck so you can slide it out easily. Like the pvc as rollers mentioned above I used 1" wood dowels to move my Bear safe. Best to put plywood down to move over carpet or protect wood floors. The dowels are cheap and work great.

The area it will be going through is all tiled would I still need the plywood?

Anywhere sell cannon Scout 24 besides academy?

dennishoddy · Jan 31, 2015

gfercaks33 said:
The area it will be going through is all tiled would I still need the plywood?

Anywhere sell cannon Scout 24 besides academy?

Tractor supply sells Cannon safes.

Yes, use the plywood on tiles. If the installer didn't get the rock-set right under the tiles, they could potentially crack.
Probably not with the surface area weight distribution but plywood is cheaper than new tile

jrusling · Feb 1, 2015

Brad A said:
"Someone I know" has a Bear safe in his garage and painted it to look like a refrigerator plus glued a refrigerator handle on it. Anyone driving by who may glance in while "his" garage door is up would not know it wasn't a refrigerator. And Bear safes are OKC made!

I did the same, except I used some rare earth magnets to hold the handle on. I also painted the handle to match the safe. Most people think it is an industrial fridge or freezer.

gfercaks33 · Feb 2, 2015

Well I got to looking at it and got slightly sad. Removing the door frame I get slightly over 26" now I can make up the rest of the space of I temorarly remove A jack stud (is that even an option. I know I mentioned the door but with in a few months of this purchase I will be hiding this whole close behind a bookshelf which I will probably open up the wall to the 28" or 26" if I am forced to get a 26"wide safe.

I'm pretty set on this cannon just because it maximizes my space, all of the 26" safes o found are narrow about 18", but this cannon is 22" deep. Trying to get the most I can for what I'm working with.

SPDguns · Feb 3, 2015

To move- Use a piano dolly. You can rent them at the local rental place. One person can easily move a 900+ pound safe (excluding stairs of course). Or use a vending machine dolly- It's a hard wheeled dolly with a strap like a refrigerator dolly, but it has wheels that kick out on the back to hold it up.

Yet another safe question.

7stw

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Brad A

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rawhide

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dennishoddy

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Mr.Glock

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gfercaks33

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