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The Range
Rifle & Shotgun Discussion
1st build help.
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<blockquote data-quote="Seadog" data-source="post: 3551428" data-attributes="member: 9018"><p>Any high temp anti-seize for the barrel nut will work but you’re not gonna need much at all. You’re going to season the barrel nut and receiver together. The anti-seize is to prevent gauling in the threads and to make it easier to take the barrel nut off in the future for whatever reason Arises. Once assembled it is not common to take apart again. The main reason would be to change barrels. But if you bought a pre-assembled upper that has the barrel on already you’re not going to need any anti-seize.</p><p></p><p> You don’t need Loctite on anything on the upper. On the lower I can’t think of anything that you need Loctite for either. I guess you could use it on the castle nut but the proper way to do it is there is tiny little notches on the castle nut next to the receiver and you center punch the receiver into one of those notches to prevent it from backing off once it’s torqued to spec. I have one of those automatic center punches and it does a good job, then you just touch up the little circular indentation. The indentation that moves a tiny bit of metal and pushes it into the notch basically works as a tension lock on the castle nut to prevent it from backing up. </p><p></p><p>As for grease? I could be wrong but I can’t think of anything in an AR that requires grease. You just want a really good Oil. Like someone above mentioned above any good synthetic oil like a quart of Mobil One will last you forever. There used to be a rule of thumb, if it slides it gets oil, if it rotates it gets Grease. Even though the bolt rotates in the carrier it’s still just gets oil, other than that everything else is a drop or two in specific locations and then the excess spread or cleaned off with a Q-tip. </p><p></p><p>We had a member on here that went by the name of Nghthawk. He has since passed away some years back may he RIP. He was an old army armor. On one occasions talking with him he told me back in the day that the oil they used on the old M16s was just diesel oil. </p><p></p><p>If I am understanding you correct and you bought a completed barreled upper that comes with the lower parts kit for the lower receiver, then all you really need is the oil. If you want to stake the castle nut then you will need an automatic center punch or a prick punch and a hammer. Harbor freight has automatic center punches that are about five bucks. They will do the trick. Or you could use a little bit of Loctite like another member mentioned. The choice is yours but the prober way is torquing. If you torque the castle nut, it needs to be approximately 40 foot pounds give or take a few pounds.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Seadog, post: 3551428, member: 9018"] Any high temp anti-seize for the barrel nut will work but you’re not gonna need much at all. You’re going to season the barrel nut and receiver together. The anti-seize is to prevent gauling in the threads and to make it easier to take the barrel nut off in the future for whatever reason Arises. Once assembled it is not common to take apart again. The main reason would be to change barrels. But if you bought a pre-assembled upper that has the barrel on already you’re not going to need any anti-seize. You don’t need Loctite on anything on the upper. On the lower I can’t think of anything that you need Loctite for either. I guess you could use it on the castle nut but the proper way to do it is there is tiny little notches on the castle nut next to the receiver and you center punch the receiver into one of those notches to prevent it from backing off once it’s torqued to spec. I have one of those automatic center punches and it does a good job, then you just touch up the little circular indentation. The indentation that moves a tiny bit of metal and pushes it into the notch basically works as a tension lock on the castle nut to prevent it from backing up. As for grease? I could be wrong but I can’t think of anything in an AR that requires grease. You just want a really good Oil. Like someone above mentioned above any good synthetic oil like a quart of Mobil One will last you forever. There used to be a rule of thumb, if it slides it gets oil, if it rotates it gets Grease. Even though the bolt rotates in the carrier it’s still just gets oil, other than that everything else is a drop or two in specific locations and then the excess spread or cleaned off with a Q-tip. We had a member on here that went by the name of Nghthawk. He has since passed away some years back may he RIP. He was an old army armor. On one occasions talking with him he told me back in the day that the oil they used on the old M16s was just diesel oil. If I am understanding you correct and you bought a completed barreled upper that comes with the lower parts kit for the lower receiver, then all you really need is the oil. If you want to stake the castle nut then you will need an automatic center punch or a prick punch and a hammer. Harbor freight has automatic center punches that are about five bucks. They will do the trick. Or you could use a little bit of Loctite like another member mentioned. The choice is yours but the prober way is torquing. If you torque the castle nut, it needs to be approximately 40 foot pounds give or take a few pounds. [/QUOTE]
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