1st time boat owner, MANY questions & issues

dennishoddy

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the difference in marine grade electronic components (primarily speaking of ignition parts) is that they are designed to eliminate/minimize the possibility of a spark in the engine compartment. Inboards are highly susceptible to ignition of gas fumes due to the inability of the engine compartment to self evacuate the fumes. It's worth the extra cost of those parts.

Never ever start the engine until you have ran the exhaust fan(s) for a few minutes to ensure evacuation of any fumes in the engine compartment. Also, if the engine is carborated you will notice the breather doesn't look like the one on your old Chevy pickup. This is for the same reason. It's constructed to minimize the possibility of an engine compartment fire. I have always highly recommended people open the engine compartment for the initial cranking for any outing. This is when the engine is cold, has sat a while and is most likely to not fire up immediately and possibly flood out filling the compartment with fumes.

I know I sound overly cautious about this but have on a couple occasions had to deal with the aftermath of an engine compartment explosion on the water. It's not good for anyone involved and the loss of the boat as it burns to the waterline is the very least of the agony.
Damned good advice! Even outboards that have the fuel tank inboard need to heed this advice. My Ranger Bass Boat developed a leak in the water separator filter under the cover during a tourney once, filling the bilge with gasoline.
 

sh00ter

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If you anchor up in a cove and want to run electrical like stereo,finder, phone charging, etc. - switch the battery to “B” only.

Keeps “A” safe for starting if you run electrical all day.

Run on “A + B” so they both get charge while cruising.

That’s they way I’ve run mine with that same battery switch you’re talking about.

If hooking up a battery charger to one of the batteries while the cables for your battery switch are still hooked up, how do you do it? I have an Optima battery charger and want to be able to charge the boat batteries without unhooking them if possible?

Thanks

Also, if anyone knows how it works for inertia trailer brakes when backing up? Like I said before, truck has flat 4 post connector and trailer has 5 post (so 5th post is unhooked)...When I backed the boat into my storage area I didn't notice the brakes locking up in reverse or anything though?
 

Cowcatcher

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I'm pretty sure inertia brakes only work when there's more pressure pushing the cylinder than just backing up. I'm sure it takes quite a bit of force to slide the hitch toward the rear of trailer. You'll probably find that inertia brakes do very little to nothing unless you brake your vehicle pretty hard.
 

FreeSpiritBalloon

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You beat me to it. There is a spring the sliding tongue has to overcome before it pushes the master cylinder rod.
Drum brakes are also slightly less grabby going backwards.
Now if you back into a solid object, when the trailer meets resistance it will apply the brakes just a moment too late to prevent the collision.


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Cowcatcher

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One question you didn't know to ask so far is "How far do I back this trailer in the water to load and unload boat?"

Some of the most fun I have on fishing trips is watching the boat ramp action. There are some guys not open to advice and some are. Down at one of my family's houses on the Gulf we are maybe 100yds from the ramp. You can sit in the A/C and watch some hilarious things. Now my advice, take your time and pay attention to how deep your fenders go into the water in relation to how easy or hard it is to load/unload boat. Bunk boards or rollers (whichever you have) are meant to help guide the boat center. Don't go sink your trailer to the hitch the first time. I like to put as little of the trailer in the water as needed to load/unload. Usually when the back of the boat just barely starts to float is plenty. Ramp angles differ and that will change how much trailer you need in the water too. Also, especially since it's a new to you boat, Don't unhook the cable until you got her in the water and running what you feel reliable. I've seen many guys unhook everything and have their wife or buddy just back em in the water doin a quick dump and now they are floating away from the ramp in a boat that won't run. Anyhow, just my advice. I'd say if a guy learns how is rig loads and unloads, he can be on and of the ramp in just a couple minutes.
Another thing, cheater pipes are really handy sticking up on the back of trailers that require bein backed in the water pretty deep. You may already have em. Post up some pics of your rig if ya don't mind.
 

C_Hallbert

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If hooking up a battery charger to one of the batteries while the cables for your battery switch are still hooked up, how do you do it? I have an Optima battery charger and want to be able to charge the boat batteries without unhooking them if possible?

Thanks

Also, if anyone knows how it works for inertia trailer brakes when backing up? Like I said before, truck has flat 4 post connector and trailer has 5 post (so 5th post is unhooked)...When I backed the boat into my storage area I didn't notice the brakes locking up in reverse or anything though?

Inertial Brake Systems have a Disconnect Device that is engaged when the Trailer Hitch Safety Pin is inserted. It is further back on the side of Trailer Neck...... (usually). It’s used for backing a heavy trailer rig up hill to prevent the brakes from engaging.


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sh00ter

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Hey you guys are great...I already bought the 4-to-5 pin adapter so I'll probably try and wire it to my reverse lights anyway just for good measure. But glad to know I'm probably okay for now...I've owned PWC for years and loaded and unloaded a lot of them as well as a few bass boats of family/buddies over the years. I will definitely not be over confident though when launching/loading this thing until I get the hang of THIS boat's requirements for that stuff.

Anyone know the answer to how to hookup a battery charger when you have dual batteries connected to a PERKO switch?
 

dlbleak

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One question you didn't know to ask so far is "How far do I back this trailer in the water to load and unload boat?"

Some of the most fun I have on fishing trips is watching the boat ramp action. There are some guys not open to advice and some are. Down at one of my family's houses on the Gulf we are maybe 100yds from the ramp. You can sit in the A/C and watch some hilarious things. Now my advice, take your time and pay attention to how deep your fenders go into the water in relation to how easy or hard it is to load/unload boat. Bunk boards or rollers (whichever you have) are meant to help guide the boat center. Don't go sink your trailer to the hitch the first time. I like to put as little of the trailer in the water as needed to load/unload. Usually when the back of the boat just barely starts to float is plenty. Ramp angles differ and that will change how much trailer you need in the water too. Also, especially since it's a new to you boat, Don't unhook the cable until you got her in the water and running what you feel reliable. I've seen many guys unhook everything and have their wife or buddy just back em in the water doin a quick dump and now they are floating away from the ramp in a boat that won't run. Anyhow, just my advice. I'd say if a guy learns how is rig loads and unloads, he can be on and of the ramp in just a couple minutes.
Another thing, cheater pipes are really handy sticking up on the back of trailers that require bein backed in the water pretty deep. You may already have em. Post up some pics of your rig if ya don't mind.

Yes, more good advice. The cheater poles can be very helpful when dealing with different ramp angles. By the time the bow reaches the trailer, the boat is already floating sideways in the wind. Arcadia and Wes Watkins have angles that are way to steep IMO.
 

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