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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
50 Little soldiers formed up in ranks. . .
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<blockquote data-quote="JRSherman" data-source="post: 1463239" data-attributes="member: 13432"><p>Well, I got my first 50 loaded today. Took me almost 2 hours, but I was doing it in batch(i.e. priming all 50, then weighing each measure on all 50, then seating all 50). I don't really care how long it took me anyways, it was neat doing it for the first time. </p><p></p><p>A few questions though. I imagine this will be more for the reload batch instead of the load batch. I'm going to go ahead and ask them anyway. </p><p></p><p>Q-1: Is it better to just bypass using new brass cases if they have small nicks in them? I am using brand new Remington brass, but I noticed that a few had tiny "dents" in the brass. I would more than likely not use them if they were fired, just in case one split, but are they okay in new brass with the normal case thickness?</p><p></p><p>Q-2: When seating primers, how vital is it that it be seated below the primer pocket? It said in the Lyman manual that they should be .003-.004 below the face of the case. I ended up having some that were just a few thousandths out(just enough to rotate in the calipers really). I'm not using these in anything semi-auto, it's all going into a bolt action, but I just wanted to ask to make sure.</p><p></p><p>Q-3: What is the best case lube(i.e. anything other than this Lee crap). I had sized all of the shells since some of the mouths were out of circularity and let them sit for a little while, and when I went to wipe the Lee stuff off it was like removing wax. I know I should have just done it while I was sizing them, but I didn't. </p><p></p><p>I've read good stuff about Hornady One-Shot, like you don't have to remove it, it doesn't hurt the case if it gets on or in the neck as long as you let it dry first. Are these fairly accurate?</p><p></p><p>Thanks for the continued help and support in my new hobby! I'm looking forward to getting something in a pistol caliber with carbide dies now.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]87014[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JRSherman, post: 1463239, member: 13432"] Well, I got my first 50 loaded today. Took me almost 2 hours, but I was doing it in batch(i.e. priming all 50, then weighing each measure on all 50, then seating all 50). I don't really care how long it took me anyways, it was neat doing it for the first time. A few questions though. I imagine this will be more for the reload batch instead of the load batch. I'm going to go ahead and ask them anyway. Q-1: Is it better to just bypass using new brass cases if they have small nicks in them? I am using brand new Remington brass, but I noticed that a few had tiny "dents" in the brass. I would more than likely not use them if they were fired, just in case one split, but are they okay in new brass with the normal case thickness? Q-2: When seating primers, how vital is it that it be seated below the primer pocket? It said in the Lyman manual that they should be .003-.004 below the face of the case. I ended up having some that were just a few thousandths out(just enough to rotate in the calipers really). I'm not using these in anything semi-auto, it's all going into a bolt action, but I just wanted to ask to make sure. Q-3: What is the best case lube(i.e. anything other than this Lee crap). I had sized all of the shells since some of the mouths were out of circularity and let them sit for a little while, and when I went to wipe the Lee stuff off it was like removing wax. I know I should have just done it while I was sizing them, but I didn't. I've read good stuff about Hornady One-Shot, like you don't have to remove it, it doesn't hurt the case if it gets on or in the neck as long as you let it dry first. Are these fairly accurate? Thanks for the continued help and support in my new hobby! I'm looking forward to getting something in a pistol caliber with carbide dies now. [attach=full]87014[/attach] [/QUOTE]
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