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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
6.5 creedmoor brass prep etc.
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3264658" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>Propane torch in the house on the carpet (wide 2 pack type bottle) and sitting almost Indian style right leg is kicked to the outside.</p><p>Resting my left elbow on my left knee and holding an 8" long 1/4" extension with deep well 10mm socket.. wait that is .223.</p><p></p><p>I am holding a piece of copper pipe in my hands that I fit a case into and it bottoms out in the copper pipe because I dinked it on 4 sides with a punch.</p><p>I spin the case neck into the flame..I use the Bernzomatic pencil tip because that is what I have and I do all my copper sweating with that.</p><p>Anyway I count seconds while I spin the case neck in the flame above the pencil tip about 1/4".</p><p>Usually 9 seconds will make the color change and creep into the shoulder area then I pull it from the flame and place the round onto a coated steel or aluminum cookie sheet.</p><p></p><p>Sometimes I just hold the case in my fingers and spin it back and forth.</p><p>It will not get too hot to hold by the time annealing is finished.</p><p></p><p>I experimented with 650 Tempilaq and with sharpie brand permanent marker they both work well for finding how many seconds will put you in the ball park.</p><p>Some thin neck cases will only take 7-8 seconds and thick longer in a different caliber may take 11-12 seconds.</p><p></p><p>Sharpie will burn off and you are done at that point. Make 3 lines evenly spaced on a case neck and down past the shoulder and test that.</p><p>The sharpie method I came up with a few years ago when I was in Lowes and seen HIGH Temp sharpie.</p><p>Come to find out it burns off at the same temp as regular black sharpie.</p><p></p><p>I tried the water dunk I tried lights off or dim and watch color I tested lightly annealed vs way over annealed years ago in .308 and tested bullet seating pressures and in .308 I can be in the 7-15 second range and get the same bullet seating and bullet pull forces.</p><p></p><p>I did the test because some argued that the neck needs to glow and others stated if it is glowing you went too far.</p><p>BUT it worked for them.</p><p>So my 7-12 seconds the neck will not glow.. you get to 15 and it is glowing.</p><p>End result was the same so just to the point of glowing vs not glowing will both work ..at least in my rude testing of measuring PSI.</p><p></p><p>After annealing I brush the inside of the case with spinning nylon bore brush and then wipe out with Q tip and lube and size .. then clean off lube with Q tip and towel. ..Trim chamfer and brush again and Q tip inside 1 more time then measure and sort and load.</p><p>I hate brass prep.</p><p>I did deburr or chamfer the inside primer hole on all these.</p><p>I will now turn some Lapua .308 cases into 6.5 creedmoor Turning necks down first while they are .308 since I do not have a mandrel for 6.5..</p><p>No I won't the neck is wrong area vs the 6.5. Scratch the Lapua deal.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3264658, member: 15054"] Propane torch in the house on the carpet (wide 2 pack type bottle) and sitting almost Indian style right leg is kicked to the outside. Resting my left elbow on my left knee and holding an 8" long 1/4" extension with deep well 10mm socket.. wait that is .223. I am holding a piece of copper pipe in my hands that I fit a case into and it bottoms out in the copper pipe because I dinked it on 4 sides with a punch. I spin the case neck into the flame..I use the Bernzomatic pencil tip because that is what I have and I do all my copper sweating with that. Anyway I count seconds while I spin the case neck in the flame above the pencil tip about 1/4". Usually 9 seconds will make the color change and creep into the shoulder area then I pull it from the flame and place the round onto a coated steel or aluminum cookie sheet. Sometimes I just hold the case in my fingers and spin it back and forth. It will not get too hot to hold by the time annealing is finished. I experimented with 650 Tempilaq and with sharpie brand permanent marker they both work well for finding how many seconds will put you in the ball park. Some thin neck cases will only take 7-8 seconds and thick longer in a different caliber may take 11-12 seconds. Sharpie will burn off and you are done at that point. Make 3 lines evenly spaced on a case neck and down past the shoulder and test that. The sharpie method I came up with a few years ago when I was in Lowes and seen HIGH Temp sharpie. Come to find out it burns off at the same temp as regular black sharpie. I tried the water dunk I tried lights off or dim and watch color I tested lightly annealed vs way over annealed years ago in .308 and tested bullet seating pressures and in .308 I can be in the 7-15 second range and get the same bullet seating and bullet pull forces. I did the test because some argued that the neck needs to glow and others stated if it is glowing you went too far. BUT it worked for them. So my 7-12 seconds the neck will not glow.. you get to 15 and it is glowing. End result was the same so just to the point of glowing vs not glowing will both work ..at least in my rude testing of measuring PSI. After annealing I brush the inside of the case with spinning nylon bore brush and then wipe out with Q tip and lube and size .. then clean off lube with Q tip and towel. ..Trim chamfer and brush again and Q tip inside 1 more time then measure and sort and load. I hate brass prep. I did deburr or chamfer the inside primer hole on all these. I will now turn some Lapua .308 cases into 6.5 creedmoor Turning necks down first while they are .308 since I do not have a mandrel for 6.5.. No I won't the neck is wrong area vs the 6.5. Scratch the Lapua deal. [/QUOTE]
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