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The Water Cooler
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60k miles...
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<blockquote data-quote="p238shooter" data-source="post: 2511930" data-attributes="member: 24583"><p>OK, not a MOPAR expert, just an old guy that has flogged many MOPARS with Chevrolet's here to give an opinion of motors of what ever brand. Opinion from a range of owning a lot of lawnmowers, weed eaters, 43 motorcycles, mechanicing nitro funny car motors, flying aircraft engines, and numerous more than I can count, automobiles. </p><p></p><p>Right now I can not remember his first his name, Hurbert I think, but it was Tom Hovers dad who engineered and developed the hemi engine for MOPAR. ( I have a 500CI hemi end table with a glass top by my chair in the living room) Mine is the 500ci Nitro Methane Version with some signatures on the block. For those into drag racing, Gartlets, Force, Perdome, 12 others.</p><p></p><p>First, What!!! 10w20? -- not 20w30? Oklahoma is not Alaska. Jesus, draining everything off your cylinders and lifters in the nighttime? No wonder you get noise. I run 30w50 to start my airplanes. I bet Dodge would like you to trade in and pay a premium to buy a new one every 6mo.</p><p></p><p>Second, to head you off of the synthetic stuff. I have purchased 3 vehicles at very reduced prices because they used synthetic oil and were "bad" motors. After changing back to the regular oil they were designed to run, everything went back to normal, one of them had 125K and I had to add a quart at 1800 miles. To me, synthetic stuff might be whizo sounding, but I like real oil in my engines, that was the premise the designers. In my opinion, if you were to purchase a new vehicle and run synthetic at twice the price to 200K it might be ok. Then I will purchase real oil and run another 200K. </p><p></p><p>This post is from a guy that normally purchases vehicles with 50K miles, uses Castrol, Sonoco, Penzoil, and most any others that happen to be on sale. (all are the same except for 3lbs powder/10,000gal, base stock oil tank based on my experience of working in refineries,) of 10W30 and then drives the hell out of them 48 miles each direction to work each day to 200K and then starts to think about if it is time to upgrade to a newer model. Most usually because the plastic hardware is starting to crumble away. Other than a Ford oil pump product, when have you ever heard of an engine failure?</p><p></p><p>In my opinion, the motor-transmission reliability of todays autos (except for some Ford oil pump problems) have far exceeded the electric window regulator reliability so far that that is now a factor. How many instances of a motor failure with your particular make and brand are out there? (Compare to Chevrolet products, not to the still consistent Ford oil pump problems that have been paged with for years.) </p><p></p><p>Lets begin with how I start either one of my aircraft. Headsets off, listen. Yes, weird noises a few seconds while things start moving in the motor, oil to the bearings and push rods, lifters pumping up (one of my engines has hydrolic lifters with a roller cam, the other solid lifters) piston vs cylinder expansion thermal equalization. Pretty rough and noisy. If it were to start sounding worse, I shut down. If it starts sounding better, I smile and turn on the aviaonics,</p><p></p><p>I am not concerned with a cold engine or old engine that makes noises at start up and then smooths out. Cold is abnormal. I am only concerned about what it sounds and feels like at normal operating temperature. </p><p></p><p>My Dad always said. Change the oil every 3,000 miles, make sure it never over heats, and above all, keep the carbon blown out. This has worked for me for over 66 years.</p><p></p><p>On the other hand, put some synthetic in it, sell it to me for 1/2 the value next week, and you will be relieved of your concerns. </p><p></p><p>Good luck to you.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="p238shooter, post: 2511930, member: 24583"] OK, not a MOPAR expert, just an old guy that has flogged many MOPARS with Chevrolet's here to give an opinion of motors of what ever brand. Opinion from a range of owning a lot of lawnmowers, weed eaters, 43 motorcycles, mechanicing nitro funny car motors, flying aircraft engines, and numerous more than I can count, automobiles. Right now I can not remember his first his name, Hurbert I think, but it was Tom Hovers dad who engineered and developed the hemi engine for MOPAR. ( I have a 500CI hemi end table with a glass top by my chair in the living room) Mine is the 500ci Nitro Methane Version with some signatures on the block. For those into drag racing, Gartlets, Force, Perdome, 12 others. First, What!!! 10w20? -- not 20w30? Oklahoma is not Alaska. Jesus, draining everything off your cylinders and lifters in the nighttime? No wonder you get noise. I run 30w50 to start my airplanes. I bet Dodge would like you to trade in and pay a premium to buy a new one every 6mo. Second, to head you off of the synthetic stuff. I have purchased 3 vehicles at very reduced prices because they used synthetic oil and were "bad" motors. After changing back to the regular oil they were designed to run, everything went back to normal, one of them had 125K and I had to add a quart at 1800 miles. To me, synthetic stuff might be whizo sounding, but I like real oil in my engines, that was the premise the designers. In my opinion, if you were to purchase a new vehicle and run synthetic at twice the price to 200K it might be ok. Then I will purchase real oil and run another 200K. This post is from a guy that normally purchases vehicles with 50K miles, uses Castrol, Sonoco, Penzoil, and most any others that happen to be on sale. (all are the same except for 3lbs powder/10,000gal, base stock oil tank based on my experience of working in refineries,) of 10W30 and then drives the hell out of them 48 miles each direction to work each day to 200K and then starts to think about if it is time to upgrade to a newer model. Most usually because the plastic hardware is starting to crumble away. Other than a Ford oil pump product, when have you ever heard of an engine failure? In my opinion, the motor-transmission reliability of todays autos (except for some Ford oil pump problems) have far exceeded the electric window regulator reliability so far that that is now a factor. How many instances of a motor failure with your particular make and brand are out there? (Compare to Chevrolet products, not to the still consistent Ford oil pump problems that have been paged with for years.) Lets begin with how I start either one of my aircraft. Headsets off, listen. Yes, weird noises a few seconds while things start moving in the motor, oil to the bearings and push rods, lifters pumping up (one of my engines has hydrolic lifters with a roller cam, the other solid lifters) piston vs cylinder expansion thermal equalization. Pretty rough and noisy. If it were to start sounding worse, I shut down. If it starts sounding better, I smile and turn on the aviaonics, I am not concerned with a cold engine or old engine that makes noises at start up and then smooths out. Cold is abnormal. I am only concerned about what it sounds and feels like at normal operating temperature. My Dad always said. Change the oil every 3,000 miles, make sure it never over heats, and above all, keep the carbon blown out. This has worked for me for over 66 years. On the other hand, put some synthetic in it, sell it to me for 1/2 the value next week, and you will be relieved of your concerns. Good luck to you. [/QUOTE]
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