Ammo for the Ruger 6.5 creedmoor

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Jcann

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When I got my rifle back from GA Precision I broke in the new Bartlein barrel with cheep Federal ammo. I followed GAP's break in procedure. I know there are differing opinions concerning barrel break in and I can't say one way or the other if it does any good. I used cheep ammo because I didn't want to use my $61 a box Copper Creek ammo. I knew the rifle probably wouldn't shoot tiny groups because the barrel was set up for Berger bullets. The Copper Creek ammo shot great but my reloads shoot better due to being tuned to the rifle.
I would go ahead and zero at 100yds
 

Jcann

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Winchester also makes match grage ammo in the 6.5 Creedmoor. I think it's 140gr as well. Just remember some match grade bullets generally aren't the best bullet for hunting. Hornady ELD and Berger hunting VLD bullets perform well, I have mixed emotions about Berger Hybrid bullets but they are not claimed to be a hunting bullet. I have friends that don't like the Sierra Matchkings for hunting. I know from first hand knowledge the Berger Hunting VLD performes great.
 

doctorjj

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I never clean any of my barrels until accuracy degrades. The Hornady 143gr ELD-X will shoot 1/4 groups in my rifle so I know that ammo is consistent. It's just a matter of if your gun likes it.
 

tomthebaker

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The point about barrel break in is to coat the spot where the rifling first begins at the end of the Chamber. It is a sharp edge, and copper builds a ramp there. So, you want to remove lead and powder fouling, but not the copper initially. Hoppes works fine, as long as you don't soak it long term.

An Army sniper school instructor suggested cleaning after each shot for the first 10 shots, then clean every 10 shots for the first 50 or so.

Everyone has different procedures, and they pretty much "work." But the best results come from cleaning the powder and lead residue and leaving the copper.

After break in, I soak the barrel in Hoppes every 200 rounds or so to remove excess copper, but I never strip it all out.

There's a lot of BS when it comes to barrel break in. I'm not a bench rest shooter, but these methods have served me well. Other opinions will differ.

Some guys use only nylon brushes, but I use the conventional brass brush and cleaning patches.

I don't scrub the bore much, just use the brush as an assist to help the chemicals do the job.
 

doctorjj

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The point about barrel break in is to coat the spot where the rifling first begins at the end of the Chamber. It is a sharp edge, and copper builds a ramp there. So, you want to remove lead and powder fouling, but not the copper initially. Hoppes works fine, as long as you don't soak it long term.

An Army sniper school instructor suggested cleaning after each shot for the first 10 shots, then clean every 10 shots for the first 50 or so.

Everyone has different procedures, and they pretty much "work." But the best results come from cleaning the powder and lead residue and leaving the copper.

After break in, I soak the barrel in Hoppes every 200 rounds or so to remove excess copper, but I never strip it all out.

There's a lot of BS when it comes to barrel break in. I'm not a bench rest shooter, but these methods have served me well. Other opinions will differ.

Some guys use only nylon brushes, but I use the conventional brass brush and cleaning patches.

I don't scrub the bore much, just use the brush as an assist to help the chemicals do the job.
Pretty much all those different procedures have been debunked by testing. Shoot your gun and don't worry about break in.
 

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