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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Annealing Straight Wall?
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3734475" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>Minimally working the brass will add much life to it.</p><p>If you are sending max loads down range the brass will not last as long as if you sent mild loads down the pipe.</p><p></p><p>I anneal every time with my rifle cases.</p><p>Not because I am afraid of a case neck split but because of accuracy.</p><p>When I did a couple brass fail tests for my .308 I shot the cases until they failed and all of them died of case head cracks not split necks.</p><p></p><p>My loads were mid range loads.</p><p>No annealing was done on my first test of .308 cases and R-P case lasted 54 firings and Full length sized each time.</p><p></p><p>Now I will say This I did not set the shoulders back more than .002" and the body of the case was not sized any more than .002"</p><p>anywhere except the neck.</p><p>If your die pinches(sizes) the case down .008" vs the fired size you can expect much less life.</p><p></p><p>I had a 45 Colt and something I hated about it was the brass.</p><p>Every manufacturer has their idea of how thick or how long it should be.</p><p>If you have different makes of brass for that do some measuring and I bet you find the same.</p><p></p><p>Sure makes it tough to come up with an accurate load when case sizes are all over the map.</p><p></p><p>If the gun was a better made one with all the cylinders the same size and shot accurate I would have gladly spent money on new brass so i could have a bunch of the same size.</p><p>It was a Ruger Blackhawk Bisley.</p><p>It made me sad to shoot it every time I took it out because it was nice but not accurate.</p><p>I did some tweaking and made it more accurate but still not up to par.</p><p></p><p>If you are chasing your tail on trying to make accurate ammo please measure the cases and sort them.</p><p>It will save you a lot of time and a lot of components.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3734475, member: 15054"] Minimally working the brass will add much life to it. If you are sending max loads down range the brass will not last as long as if you sent mild loads down the pipe. I anneal every time with my rifle cases. Not because I am afraid of a case neck split but because of accuracy. When I did a couple brass fail tests for my .308 I shot the cases until they failed and all of them died of case head cracks not split necks. My loads were mid range loads. No annealing was done on my first test of .308 cases and R-P case lasted 54 firings and Full length sized each time. Now I will say This I did not set the shoulders back more than .002" and the body of the case was not sized any more than .002" anywhere except the neck. If your die pinches(sizes) the case down .008" vs the fired size you can expect much less life. I had a 45 Colt and something I hated about it was the brass. Every manufacturer has their idea of how thick or how long it should be. If you have different makes of brass for that do some measuring and I bet you find the same. Sure makes it tough to come up with an accurate load when case sizes are all over the map. If the gun was a better made one with all the cylinders the same size and shot accurate I would have gladly spent money on new brass so i could have a bunch of the same size. It was a Ruger Blackhawk Bisley. It made me sad to shoot it every time I took it out because it was nice but not accurate. I did some tweaking and made it more accurate but still not up to par. If you are chasing your tail on trying to make accurate ammo please measure the cases and sort them. It will save you a lot of time and a lot of components. [/QUOTE]
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