Annealing.. Temp Indicator (Sharpie)

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DRC458

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I built a wire holder onto the torch part and a tool to hold cases so I can position my cases in the same exact spot every time..I also spin the case in the flame to get even distribution of heat.

I'd be interested in seeing the 'wire holder' or fixture and tool you made. I spin mine constantly while heating, but just do it by hand (wearing gloves) so it's a bit awkward. About the only cases I anneal are being formed into something else, like .280 AI or making .25-284 cases from 6.5-284, or .243 from .308, or .219 Zipper from .25-35, etc.
 

swampratt

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You still need to use some common sense to get it in the same spot but here it is ..pretty simple.
You can also use a socket and extension for the case holder/spinner I spin by hand also.
The socket extension will fit into the bent U portion of the wire.
The wire is 7018 welding rod I hammered the flux off of.
Then hose clamped it to the bottle.

This case holder is copper tubing with dinks punched into it too keep the case from falling through it.
I like to keep things simple.
This works better than holding your hand in the air with no rest.
I think everyone should anneal starting with bare fingers holding the case..You should be done way before the case gets too hot to hold.

I have made .308 from 270 cases and many other cases.
I have also made 45acp from .308 cases..Yes but 45acp shot shells.. No annealing involved in that deal.
But a lot of annealing in making the .308 from .270. I do not have a 270 and needed more .308 cases.
What was nice about that was the neck was very thick and I could turn the necks too just fit the chamber.
Was it more accurate? No not really.
annealer 001.JPG
annealer 002.JPG
 

DRC458

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You still need to use some common sense to get it in the same spot but here it is ..pretty simple.
You can also use a socket and extension for the case holder/spinner I spin by hand also.
The socket extension will fit into the bent U portion of the wire.
The wire is 7018 welding rod I hammered the flux off of.
Then hose clamped it to the bottle.

This case holder is copper tubing with dinks punched into it too keep the case from falling through it.
I like to keep things simple.
This works better than holding your hand in the air with no rest.
I think everyone should anneal starting with bare fingers holding the case..You should be done way before the case gets too hot to hold.

I have made .308 from 270 cases and many other cases.
I have also made 45acp from .308 cases..Yes but 45acp shot shells.. No annealing involved in that deal.
But a lot of annealing in making the .308 from .270. I do not have a 270 and needed more .308 cases.
What was nice about that was the neck was very thick and I could turn the necks too just fit the chamber.
Was it more accurate? No not really.
View attachment 111437 View attachment 111438

Gotcha'. Thanks. I like simple! I think I've got some scraps of aluminum conduit around here that would do nicely to hold the cases. I've probably got some copper wire heavy enough for the 'rest.' Or, maybe some #9 wire.

Are you water quenching?
 

swampratt

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I tried water quenching and standing them in a pan of water and tip them over ..I even tried the dip into a hot pot of molten lead.
It will all work just the same.
Water quenching is not needed.
One less step ..No need to dry cases out..
In fact I have taken them straight from the pin tumbler, towel them off, they still have water inside of the cases.
I then anneal them and place them on a large piece of cardboard or a tin pie pan to let them cool.

By the time they are cooled the water has evaporated or mostly evaporated. You need to check that for sure before you proceed to more prep.
 

dennishoddy

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Gotcha'. Thanks. I like simple! I think I've got some scraps of aluminum conduit around here that would do nicely to hold the cases. I've probably got some copper wire heavy enough for the 'rest.' Or, maybe some #9 wire.

Are you water quenching?
The Lee Lock Stud is all you need for getting an even heat on annealing. Cheap, and easy.
Even a video in the link to watch to see how it works. Disregard the trimming attachment.
https://leeprecision.com/cutter-lock-stud.html
 

swampratt

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That lee lock stud and shell holder need snugged up.. that case is smokin hot at the case mouth after annealing and the heat sneaks down the case.. wear gloves if you use that so you can get the case back out without burning yourself.
Not that you will but Murphy is around sometimes.
 

dennishoddy

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That lee lock stud and shell holder need snugged up.. that case is smokin hot at the case mouth after annealing and the heat sneaks down the case.. wear gloves if you use that so you can get the case back out without burning yourself.
Not that you will but Murphy is around sometimes.

I didn’t mention the gloves/heat issue. I figured if someone couldn’t foresee that coming, some positive reinforcement of the pain neurons in their fingers would teach a lesson not soon forgotten.
When I used to anneal, I had a base using hose clamps to secure the drill motor to the bench so getting the brass in and out was very quick. Back in the day before I had a tumbler and didn’t reload much, this rig with some 000 steel wool is how I cleaned the brass before sizing. Wasn’t super shiny, but it was clean.
See if I can find it and post a pic.
 

swampratt

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Recently I have resorted back to cleaning some cases with 0000 steel wool or just alcohol and a paper towel to wipe down the case and use a spinning nylon bore brush to clean the case inside.
Anneal and brush inside the case again then Lube with Imperial or Hornady wax and Resize then clean the wax out and brush the inside 1 more time and check ID and OD of cases and load.

I found brushing saves my dies and after sizing brushing improves my groups.
 

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