Any suggestions for re-blueing a revolver?

[steelfingers]

SPDguns did me a favor and fixed my Rossi 38 revolver. It's pretty good shape with a little wear but I want it to look show room. No deep scratches or flaws but I've got some the super blue, degreaser and another thing. Question is, does it work? If so, how and what do I need to do to make it work as cold blueing? also, do I need to take it apart to do all external pieces? I know nothing.
Advice would be very cool.
I hope to pick the gun up next week and it would be a good project to do at home with the current shutdowns.

Let me know please. Details, no matter how small, are appreciated

 

[rocketman]

Cold blue is ok for making small parts black or touching up small spots but it will wear off easy and you have to make sure you have an uncontaminated bottle of cold blue and a perfectly clean part. I've done complete firearms with it but it never stays on the corners of the external surfaces and it doesn't match true bluing. I have been using it for 20 years with varying success. Clean part with denatured alcohol or degreaser, rinse in hot water, let it dry, apply solution, rinse, card with fine steel wool, and repeat.

I recommend learning how to rust blue. Its more durable than hot bluing and you can make a very nice finish using equipment you have at home or at the hardware store. You can even touch up worn finishes without stripping the guns original bluing and it will match perfectly if you use the right solution. I've been using a solution from rustblue.com but there are many out there and brownells has a few. I do NOT recommend trying any home brew rust blue solutions unless you are trying it on scrap metal. I built the PVC tube and burner setup that is in the first video below.

 

[TedKennedy]

+1 on learning how to rust blue.

 

[rocketman]

The other good thing about knowing the rust blue method is that any rusty or just plain old and brown part can be restored by simply boiling it in distilled water and then carding it with a carding wheel or steel wool. The rust turns into bluing and you never had to strip or sand anything.

 

[steelfingers]

+1 on learning how to rust blue.

Me too. I've never even heard of it but I'm going to look at a bunch of vids on it, if possible. Thanks Rocketman. Anything you want to add will be appreciated. Pic's would be great too. I love before and afters. The gun isn't in a condition that it needs the blueing but it has a couple of tiny buble spots and some wear, I'd love to get it back to brand new. I'm a little worried about another hot blueing because that can cause a problem (as much as I've read). If anyone thinks it's best to have it done, tell me.
I know it's not an expensive gun but it's a gun I really like.
Suggestions please

 

[Bocephus123]

Rossi may do it for a fair price. by the time you buy everything might be just as cheap. i contacted charter arms about doing a reblue they were 150 + shipping.

 

[zipty6]

Rust bluing a revolver can be quite rewarding. That being said, it doesn't usually produce the deep, liquid looking, blue that you may be after. I'm far from a pro, but I've done several using the instructions on this page.

Here are a few examples.

 

[steelfingers]

Rust bluing a revolver can be quite rewarding. That being said, it doesn't usually produce the deep, liquid looking, blue that you may be after. I'm far from a pro, but I've done several using the instructions on this page.

Here are a few examples.

That looks pretty darn good to me

 

[osu007]

I have used only cold blue before. I did heat the parts up prior to cleaning with alcohol before bluing. Use smooth full length strokes on the piece being blued. I also found a couple of coats of bluing worked best. I also found out that using a premium gun oil liberally after bluing and leaving it on the metal seems to help cure the bluing. I would leave the oil on for at least 2 days. It, the gun can be placed in a plastic pan or tray with lid off. And keep all metal wet. Seemed to work for me.

 

[HiredHand]

Cold blue is ok for making small parts black or touching up small spots but it will wear off easy and you have to make sure you have an uncontaminated bottle of cold blue and a perfectly clean part. I've done complete firearms with it but it never stays on the corners of the external surfaces and it doesn't match true bluing. I have been using it for 20 years with varying success. Clean part with denatured alcohol or degreaser, rinse in hot water, let it dry, apply solution, rinse, card with fine steel wool, and repeat.

I recommend learning how to rust blue. Its more durable than hot bluing and you can make a very nice finish using equipment you have at home or at the hardware store. You can even touch up worn finishes without stripping the guns original bluing and it will match perfectly if you use the right solution. I've been using a solution from rustblue.com but there are many out there and brownells has a few. I do NOT recommend trying any home brew rust blue solutions unless you are trying it on scrap metal. I built the PVC tube and burner setup that is in the first video below.

This has to be one of the best posts that I’ve come across on OSA in awhile. I’ve gone down the rabbit hole watching those videos. Looks like I have a few projects to add to my list. Thanks.