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Competition, Tactics & Training
Self Defense & Handgun Carry
Anyone else make their own holsters?
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<blockquote data-quote="Nanotech9" data-source="post: 927096" data-attributes="member: 676"><p>pull the gun out real slow and put it back in... that large indentation will drag down the trigger guard for as long as the indentation is.</p><p></p><p>see on the XD holster i posted how the trigger guard area is flat except for 1 small indentation? i use a small round object, sometimes the end of a 1/8" or even 1/4" drill bit and spot heat that area and put a small depression in it. This way, it only drags for a small amount as it moves past the small indentation. I do this on both sides.</p><p></p><p>Also, i wrap my guns in 1 layer of blue painters tape because i want a little extra clearance (less drag) when the holster is finished... less dragging on the sharp edges of the slide, etc.</p><p></p><p>i saw a holster above (someone elses) with the area over the ejection port sunken in... thats going to wear the sharp edges of the ejection port down, as well as wear badly on the slide the whole way up to the port from the nose of the gun. Will wear the finish right off if drawn much for practice. Will definitely begin to scratch the finish once it gets a little grit in the holster and is drawn a few times.</p><p></p><p>To make the belt clips look like they do, i use a pair of sheet-metal pliers (thin, wide). first i form the top half (round it over) then heat just the bottom and lock onto the kydex with the pliers and shove it down in towards the extra wide belt... then right before completely cool, i remove the belt, and roll the bottom in a little further so it kinda cuts back in towars the belt and helps keep from slipping off when worn.</p><p></p><p>you can see the small round depression in the trigger guard of this J-frame holster i made... I also wrap the revolvers in tape when i make them - nobody wants to wear the finish off their cylinder.</p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nanotech9, post: 927096, member: 676"] pull the gun out real slow and put it back in... that large indentation will drag down the trigger guard for as long as the indentation is. see on the XD holster i posted how the trigger guard area is flat except for 1 small indentation? i use a small round object, sometimes the end of a 1/8" or even 1/4" drill bit and spot heat that area and put a small depression in it. This way, it only drags for a small amount as it moves past the small indentation. I do this on both sides. Also, i wrap my guns in 1 layer of blue painters tape because i want a little extra clearance (less drag) when the holster is finished... less dragging on the sharp edges of the slide, etc. i saw a holster above (someone elses) with the area over the ejection port sunken in... thats going to wear the sharp edges of the ejection port down, as well as wear badly on the slide the whole way up to the port from the nose of the gun. Will wear the finish right off if drawn much for practice. Will definitely begin to scratch the finish once it gets a little grit in the holster and is drawn a few times. To make the belt clips look like they do, i use a pair of sheet-metal pliers (thin, wide). first i form the top half (round it over) then heat just the bottom and lock onto the kydex with the pliers and shove it down in towards the extra wide belt... then right before completely cool, i remove the belt, and roll the bottom in a little further so it kinda cuts back in towars the belt and helps keep from slipping off when worn. you can see the small round depression in the trigger guard of this J-frame holster i made... I also wrap the revolvers in tape when i make them - nobody wants to wear the finish off their cylinder. [b][Broken External Image][/b] [/QUOTE]
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