AR-15 failing to go into battery

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Letfreedomring

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Not sure if it's just the angle of pic or what, but the pic of chamber sure looks rough around feed ramps. Looks like there's quite a bit of brass transfer on the surface of ramps and almost look like burrs on keyways. That is probably where I would start by smoothing and polishing with dremel unless you're thinking of doing a warranty return. Good luck and keep us updated on fix.
 

leemozoid

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The problem occurs when I load a magazine and then hit the bolt release. It fails to go fully into battery, even with repeated use of the charging handle. But if I drop the mag with the round still in the chamber and then use the charging handle again, the bolt goes fully into battery.
Try pulling the charging handle back and releasing it to let the bolt drive forward. Sounds to me like you need a stronger spring. Are you shooting suppressed? The JP Silent Capture isn't really needed unless you are. I use one in a suppressed 9" .300 AAC BO SBR platform with zero issues.
 

Perplexed

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Update: I swapped out the barrel for another one, and still had the same issue of the bolt not going into battery with a loaded magazine. It would strip and partly chamber the round, but go no further. Dropping the magazine and recharging the bolt would result in the bolt chambering the round properly and going into battery. With an empty magazine, the bolt would go into battery when I released it.

The mystery continues, but now I’m looking hard at the side charger.
 

swampratt

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With your explanation of what works and what does not I come to the conclusion that the Ammo loaded
magazine does not work and that would mean friction on the bolt and the loaded round is causing
enough extra friction to keep the bolt from going into battery.

Can you polish the bottom of the bolt.
Is that bolt fat enough to remove some material and then polish it.
And another thing that was stated earlier in the thread was the buffer spring.
Can this rifle still cycle with a stiffer spring?

A stiffer spring may allow it to go into battery.
You could probably stack some sort of wood block or big Nut at the end of the spring to test it by hand.

And lastly doesn't the bolt slide across the top of the hammer also.
Another part to polish.
I would polish everything and oil it then wipe off oil and try it.
That is what I would do if it was mine.
 

Perplexed

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I should summarize what I’ve done, so it’ll make more sense. Here goes:

1) Tried two different full auto bolts, one of which came from a known good AR
2) Tried two different lowers, one of which came from a known good AR
3) Tried two different barrels, both brand new: KAK and Aero Precision
4) Tried three different springs: JP silent capture, standard carbine, extra power
5) Tried two different buffers: carbine and H1
6) Tried two different magazines: aluminum USGI and Magpul, both new

In all cases, the bolt would strip a round from the mag, but not chamber it fully. If I removed the mag and recharged the bolt, the round would chamber and the bolt would go into battery. A fully loaded mag also was difficult to seat on a closed bolt using both lowers.

I did notice that after a dozen tries, there already was wear on the top of the bolt stop and on the bottom of the bolt in a new lower. But the OOB problem persisted with the known good lower.

That’s why I suspect an issue with the New Frontier Armory upper. Possibly out of spec, and the bolt is riding a bit too low in the races of this upper, since the OOB issue occurred with two different bolts in the same upper?
 

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