Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Classifieds
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Log in
Register
What's New?
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More Options
Advertise with us
Contact Us
Close Menu
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Forums
The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Black powder cartridges
Search titles only
By:
Reply to Thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="bfoster" data-source="post: 797704" data-attributes="member: 85"><p>For equal peak pressures the shape of the burn time curve of black powder differs very substantially from that of all currently available smokeless powders. This, combined with the combustion residue of black powder, are the primary factors which account for the difference in bullet alloy, lube, and (usually) the use of wads in the cartridge.</p><p></p><p>You'll find that black powder fouling will vary considerably- one of the hot, dry and windy August afternoons we see here in Oklahoma (this year has been the exception to the rule in my area) can pose much more of a problem than a cool damp morning in February. In August I use a lube just solid enough not to "run" composed of tallow, beeswax and a bit of lanolin, in February I omit the lanolin and use a much "stiffer" mixture of tallow and beeswax. Less extreme conditions call for a lube blend between the two conditions noted. It's much harder to "overlubricate" a black powder handgun bullet than it is to create this condition in a smokeless powder bullet. You may well obtain the best results with long "obsolete" moulds (there is a robust secondhand market) which were specifically designed for black powder shooting- or, after you've learned a bit, trying your hand at bullet design by using one of the custom mould makers.</p><p></p><p>The use of too hard a bullet with black powder is usually not conducive to fine accuracy, and can under some conditions, promote greatly increased lead fouling. Unlike bullets to be used with smokeless powders I rarely use antimony in the lead alloy for black powder bullets. A good place to start with revolver bullets for black powder is 1:40, tin to lead. I have successfully used alloys ranging from 1:160 (just enough tin to allow the mould to fill in a consistent manner) to 1:20 in black powder rifles- and from 1:50 to 1:20 in black powder loads for revolvers. Shotgun cartridges are an exception. Harder shot (up to 6% antimony and 2% tin depending on the size of the shot) almost invariably produces a better pattern regardless of the propellant.</p><p></p><p>Wads can vary from commercially available felt, fibre, plastic or other materials to cork, blotter paper, or wax paper cut with a simple die by the handloader. Selection will vary with application and personal preference.</p><p></p><p>Other than a bit more recoil (due to the larger mass of the propellant charge) you won't notice much difference with many loads in the 38 Special when using black powder.</p><p></p><p>The 45 Colt can be a different story. It's relatively easy to obtain a safe, somewhat faster and heavier load than all commercial smokeless ammunition except that marked "for Ruger and Freedom Arms ONLY". This may or may not be one of your objectives.</p><p></p><p>Enjoy,</p><p></p><p>Bob</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bfoster, post: 797704, member: 85"] For equal peak pressures the shape of the burn time curve of black powder differs very substantially from that of all currently available smokeless powders. This, combined with the combustion residue of black powder, are the primary factors which account for the difference in bullet alloy, lube, and (usually) the use of wads in the cartridge. You'll find that black powder fouling will vary considerably- one of the hot, dry and windy August afternoons we see here in Oklahoma (this year has been the exception to the rule in my area) can pose much more of a problem than a cool damp morning in February. In August I use a lube just solid enough not to "run" composed of tallow, beeswax and a bit of lanolin, in February I omit the lanolin and use a much "stiffer" mixture of tallow and beeswax. Less extreme conditions call for a lube blend between the two conditions noted. It's much harder to "overlubricate" a black powder handgun bullet than it is to create this condition in a smokeless powder bullet. You may well obtain the best results with long "obsolete" moulds (there is a robust secondhand market) which were specifically designed for black powder shooting- or, after you've learned a bit, trying your hand at bullet design by using one of the custom mould makers. The use of too hard a bullet with black powder is usually not conducive to fine accuracy, and can under some conditions, promote greatly increased lead fouling. Unlike bullets to be used with smokeless powders I rarely use antimony in the lead alloy for black powder bullets. A good place to start with revolver bullets for black powder is 1:40, tin to lead. I have successfully used alloys ranging from 1:160 (just enough tin to allow the mould to fill in a consistent manner) to 1:20 in black powder rifles- and from 1:50 to 1:20 in black powder loads for revolvers. Shotgun cartridges are an exception. Harder shot (up to 6% antimony and 2% tin depending on the size of the shot) almost invariably produces a better pattern regardless of the propellant. Wads can vary from commercially available felt, fibre, plastic or other materials to cork, blotter paper, or wax paper cut with a simple die by the handloader. Selection will vary with application and personal preference. Other than a bit more recoil (due to the larger mass of the propellant charge) you won't notice much difference with many loads in the 38 Special when using black powder. The 45 Colt can be a different story. It's relatively easy to obtain a safe, somewhat faster and heavier load than all commercial smokeless ammunition except that marked "for Ruger and Freedom Arms ONLY". This may or may not be one of your objectives. Enjoy, Bob [/QUOTE]
Insert Quotes…
Verification
Post Reply
Forums
The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Black powder cartridges
Search titles only
By:
Top
Bottom