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The Water Cooler
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<blockquote data-quote="Oklahomabassin" data-source="post: 2119564" data-attributes="member: 1546"><p>Fiberglass look for scratches in gel coat, look inside hull anywhere possible for rotting wood (if wood runners were used. Aluminum hulls look for dents, gouges, popped rivets (if riveted hull). Check soft spots in floor decking. I prefer to check compression on all cylinders of motor. I trust this more than a lake test. Trailers made with tubing are notorious for rusting on the inside, unless galvenized. Make sure boat hasn't been used in brackish or saltwater (usually only for bigger boats). Trailers and motors built for saltwater use are fine, if taken care of properly. See if they use a boat mechanic regularly. I found out the #5 cylinder had lost over 60% compression once by doing this. I didn't buy the boat and soon found out he was putting a motor on it. That was a 25,000 savings.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Oklahomabassin, post: 2119564, member: 1546"] Fiberglass look for scratches in gel coat, look inside hull anywhere possible for rotting wood (if wood runners were used. Aluminum hulls look for dents, gouges, popped rivets (if riveted hull). Check soft spots in floor decking. I prefer to check compression on all cylinders of motor. I trust this more than a lake test. Trailers made with tubing are notorious for rusting on the inside, unless galvenized. Make sure boat hasn't been used in brackish or saltwater (usually only for bigger boats). Trailers and motors built for saltwater use are fine, if taken care of properly. See if they use a boat mechanic regularly. I found out the #5 cylinder had lost over 60% compression once by doing this. I didn't buy the boat and soon found out he was putting a motor on it. That was a 25,000 savings. [/QUOTE]
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