Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Classifieds
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Log in
Register
What's New?
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More Options
Advertise with us
Contact Us
Close Menu
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Forums
The Water Cooler
General Discussion
Broken Guitar! need a Guitar doctor
Search titles only
By:
Reply to Thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Rick W" data-source="post: 1398638" data-attributes="member: 13775"><p>There's more to it than Gorilla Glue and a c-clamp.</p><p>I used to work on guitars, and I've done a LOT of bridges.</p><p>First, you have to remove all the old glue. It's easy to take off too much wood or scratch the finish on the top if you're not careful. When you get a good clean, tight-fitting joint,the proper glue to use is hot (not liquid) hide glue.That allows a future repairman to remove the bridge at a later date, and allows the best sound transmission to the top.I would NOT use Gorilla Glue or other polyurethane glue. I have used Titebond(original) but the hot hide glue is much better.</p><p> The bridge needs to be clamped with a minimum of three clamps: middle and each end,padded to protect the finish and blocked up underneath to clear the braces.</p><p>I usually taped off the outline of the bridge with blue tape to keep any glue squeeze-out off the top. It doesn't take much pressure on the clamps, either.</p><p>Now when you get an estimate on re-gluing the bridge, you will realize what goes in to it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rick W, post: 1398638, member: 13775"] There's more to it than Gorilla Glue and a c-clamp. I used to work on guitars, and I've done a LOT of bridges. First, you have to remove all the old glue. It's easy to take off too much wood or scratch the finish on the top if you're not careful. When you get a good clean, tight-fitting joint,the proper glue to use is hot (not liquid) hide glue.That allows a future repairman to remove the bridge at a later date, and allows the best sound transmission to the top.I would NOT use Gorilla Glue or other polyurethane glue. I have used Titebond(original) but the hot hide glue is much better. The bridge needs to be clamped with a minimum of three clamps: middle and each end,padded to protect the finish and blocked up underneath to clear the braces. I usually taped off the outline of the bridge with blue tape to keep any glue squeeze-out off the top. It doesn't take much pressure on the clamps, either. Now when you get an estimate on re-gluing the bridge, you will realize what goes in to it. [/QUOTE]
Insert Quotes…
Verification
Post Reply
Forums
The Water Cooler
General Discussion
Broken Guitar! need a Guitar doctor
Search titles only
By:
Top
Bottom