Changing distributers

[swampratt]

Where is the dielectric grease being used and why does it cause failures? I've been putting it on a lot of stuff for awhile.

They are putting the grease on the bottom of the module.
Dielectric grease is NOT thermal heat sink grease/paste.

Thermal paste allows for an efficient transfer of heat from the module to the body of the distributor.
Dielectric grease is a lubricant and seals out moisture, prevents oxidation and is temperature resistant.
Use it on the boots to allow the plug wires to slide on and off the spark plugs better and on the cap to help seal out moisture. Some people use it on bulp sockets
If you wish to use it there.

Some do some do not.

 

[Tall]

I agree with swampratt. Pertronix electronic ignition conversions are the way to go. Literally install and forget. Setting the gap within tolerance can be tedious and frustrating with the little shims, but worth it. New distrib for conversion old distrib with points for back up

It used to be that way. Nowdays the Pertronix units are made in China and quality control has gone out the window. I used to preach what you do but points and condensers from 40 years ago won't leave you stranded like a new Pertronix will.

 

[Perplexed]

It used to be that way. Nowdays the Pertronix units are made in China and quality control has gone out the window. I used to preach what you do but points and condensers from 40 years ago won't leave you stranded like a new Pertronix will.

How did you get my screen name when quoting someone else in this thread? I haven’t even taken part… lol

 

[Tall]

How did you get my screen name when quoting someone else in this thread? I haven’t even taken part… lol

I tried to delete it. Unsuccessful.

 

[red442joe]

Points, and knowing how to use them, will survive the coming EMP...or a Carington event CME...or War of the Worlds alien landings...

Joe

 

[swampratt]

I got to mess with a Big Allen oscilloscope engine analyzer and tested spark output on an HEI and a single point distributor.
At 4500 rpm the voltages were about the same, below that the HEI had 10,000 more volts.
At 6000 rpm the Points distributor had more spark energy .

At the race track a puny 12.50 et Nova I had with the 270H magnum cam that got shifted at 6900 rpm and had 11.9 compression and 245 PSI cranking pressure went 2 tenths quicker with the single point distributor.

I have no issues with a single point distributor and my resistor I used only dropped voltagy by 2 volts so my 14.7 volt output alternator allowed 12.7 volts to the coil.
Yea my points did not last but 1500 miles before they needed adjusted but that was partly because the high performance spring on them.
Part number was CS89.
My uncle gave me that number and said that point set was high performance and would go 8500 rpm before point bounce.

I bought my 1947 Dodge truck from my dads fishing buddy and he had his super gas chevelle engine in it and 396" from 1965 12.5 compression and dual carter 750 carbs on it and ......

A single point distributor.
He shifted it between 8000 and 8500 rpm is what he told me and ran in the high 9's.

I never had issues running a single point distributor and a good coil.
My uncle told me get a Ford coil.
I used the coil off my 1982 Mustang 200" straight six.

Never any issues.

Not as maintenance free as the HEI though.

 

[red442joe]

I got to mess with a Big Allen oscilloscope engine analyzer and tested spark output on an HEI and a single point distributor.
At 4500 rpm the voltages were about the same, below that the HEI had 10,000 more volts.
At 6000 rpm the Points distributor had more spark energy .

At the race track a puny 12.50 et Nova I had with the 270H magnum cam that got shifted at 6900 rpm and had 11.9 compression and 245 PSI cranking pressure went 2 tenths quicker with the single point distributor.

I have no issues with a single point distributor and my resistor I used only dropped voltagy by 2 volts so my 14.7 volt output alternator allowed 12.7 volts to the coil.
Yea my points did not last but 1500 miles before they needed adjusted but that was partly because the high performance spring on them.
Part number was CS89.
My uncle gave me that number and said that point set was high performance and would go 8500 rpm before point bounce.

I bought my 1947 Dodge truck from my dads fishing buddy and he had his super gas chevelle engine in it and 396" from 1965 12.5 compression and dual carter 750 carbs on it and ......

A single point distributor.
He shifted it between 8000 and 8500 rpm is what he told me and ran in the high 9's.

I never had issues running a single point distributor and a good coil.
My uncle told me get a Ford coil.
I used the coil off my 1982 Mustang 200" straight six.

Never any issues.

Not as maintenance free as the HEI though.

This^^^!

Joe

 

[swampratt]

When I had to put the whooparse on my buddies 550 wheel HP 2015 5.0 supercharged mustang I ran my tunnel-ram and 2 600 carbs and a single point distributor.
The distributor was straight from autozone with their guts in it for under 40 bucks only mod was to recurve the advance portion.
Those points bounced at 7000 rpm on day 2.
Here is day 2 testing and seeing why it was breaking up at 7000.

Little 350" with ported 305 heads small valves and 280H cam.




Here it is race day when my timing retarded on me during the burnout.
Lacked some top end pull and took a bit off the bottom.
I still beat my buddies 550 wheel hp mustang to the finish line but he was spreading some jelly on a PB&J while waiting for the lights to change. (my best guess)



Not saying you should keep the points just wanted to show that points can work well.

Many people know a Magneto is a hot/strong spark and many are triggered by points

 

[Okie4570]

I side with Fuel Injection/throttle body and Electronic Ignition systems.

Do your research.

@swampratt was supposed to have been born in 1925.

Ford used positive side ground back in 1925 though.....

 

[Hooper]

I got to mess with a Big Allen oscilloscope engine analyzer and tested spark output on an HEI and a single point distributor.
At 4500 rpm the voltages were about the same, below that the HEI had 10,000 more volts.
At 6000 rpm the Points distributor had more spark energy .

At the race track a puny 12.50 et Nova I had with the 270H magnum cam that got shifted at 6900 rpm and had 11.9 compression and 245 PSI cranking pressure went 2 tenths quicker with the single point distributor.

I have no issues with a single point distributor and my resistor I used only dropped voltagy by 2 volts so my 14.7 volt output alternator allowed 12.7 volts to the coil.
Yea my points did not last but 1500 miles before they needed adjusted but that was partly because the high performance spring on them.
Part number was CS89.
My uncle gave me that number and said that point set was high performance and would go 8500 rpm before point bounce.

I bought my 1947 Dodge truck from my dads fishing buddy and he had his super gas chevelle engine in it and 396" from 1965 12.5 compression and dual carter 750 carbs on it and ......

A single point distributor.
He shifted it between 8000 and 8500 rpm is what he told me and ran in the high 9's.

I never had issues running a single point distributor and a good coil.
My uncle told me get a Ford coil.
I used the coil off my 1982 Mustang 200" straight six.

Never any issues.

Not as maintenance free as the HEI though.

All this time I thought solid state was better, I remember for points just carry a couple of sets with condensers with you, wasn't a big deal to change them.
Never knew they out performed on the spark. For a normal setup, just change check and change like oil, no problem for an old every day ride. I remember your vacuum system needed to be good for the advance to work its best. They take a little more maintenance, but pretty simple and cheap for a non performance ride.