Dating Savage/Stevens rifles - Model 4,5,6 and 85,86,87 series and variants

[Catt57]

My first post, so forgive any errors, thanks so much for all your info on the model 5 savage .22 I Just inherited one from my grandfather, and using your information in the fact that it was built in Chicopee Falls and contains the RE patent number, and also an inspectors stamp that appears to start with L and I think has the digits 41, would lead me to believe it was manufactured in 1960. Do you agree?? Also, the only thing that appears to need attention with his rifle is the trigger guard, which was painted black but it’s flaking badly. Is there a way to purchase another or do you recommend unscrewing it and sanding/painting it? I’m slightly concerned that if I unscrew it, it will tighten back up and not become stripped. Appreciate any advice.

Glad it helped. Based on what you said it appears you are correct.
As for the trigger guard, I have removed, stripped, and repainted several without issue. As long as you don't over tighten the screws you should be fine.

Btw - Rust-O-leum satin black is the best match I've found so far.
Being a high wear item I usually apply about 3-4 light coats.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[Steeltown]

Glad it helped. Based on what you said it appears you are correct.
As for the trigger guard, I have removed, stripped, and repainted several without issue. As long as you don't over tighten the screws you should be fine.

Btw - Rust-O-leum satin black is the best match I've found so far.
Being a high wear item I usually apply about 3-4 light coats.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the quick reply. I removed the two screws on the trigger guard, but it didnt come right off and I didnt want to force it. Have you had to pry them off? Also, what did you use to sand it prior to painting?

 

[Catt57]

Assuming your trigger guard looks like this:


It's probably just stuck in the stock from the years of crud and mung. With the stock off, stick a short wooden dowel (or other small piece of wood or plastic) through the trigger opening and against the inside of the trigger guard. Use a small hammer and tap the end of the dowel a few times. May have to tap it firmly, but shouldn't have to pound on it to get to break loose. Once it's loose you should be able to remove it by hand.

Also, I just use a chemical stripper to remove the old paint. Wash it with soap and water and let it dry good.
If you need to smooth out the metal, regular sand paper will work. Probably use about 240 grit.

 

[Steeltown]

Assuming your trigger guard looks like this:
View attachment 210811

It's probably just stuck in the stock from the years of crud and mung. With the stock off, stick a short wooden dowel (or other small piece of wood or plastic) through the trigger opening and against the inside of the trigger guard. Use a small hammer and tap the end of the dowel a few times. May have to tap it firmly, but shouldn't have to pound on it to get to break loose. Once it's loose you should be able to remove it by hand.

Also, I just use a chemical stripper to remove the old paint. Wash it with soap and water and let it dry good.
If you need to smooth out the metal, regular sand paper will work. Probably use about 240 grit.

Yes, looks just like that, sounds like a good plan, thanks again!

 

[Robert Lindsey]

I have & old 22 crack shot L R Iam looking for parts for the falling block

 

[Catt57]

I have & old 22 crack shot L R Iam looking for parts for the falling block

You might try the forums over at Savage/Stevens - RimfireCentral.com Forums

 

[Deleted member 55879]

I thought some of the members here could benefit from this information.


This information was consolidated from the Savage, Stevens, Springfield, Clone Data Base over at Rimfire Central
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344753

It is very likely that there is more information to be had from reading the entire thread but it is quite lengthy and I am pressed for time right now.



Dating Savage/Stevens rifles - specific to the Model 4,5,6 and 85,86,87 series and variants. (But may also be applicable to other models)

The easiest is by the alpha code contained in the inspectors mark.
The alpha code should be preceded by one or two numbers enclosed in a circle on top of the barrel, typically between the rear sight & the receiver. Disregard any marking outside of the circle.

Here are date codes from 1949 thru 1970.
A=49, B=50, C=51, D=52, E=53, F=54, G=55, H=56, I=57, J=58, K=59, L=60, M=61, N=62, P=63, R=64, S=65, T=66, U=67, V=68, W=69, X=70 (Note O and Q were not used)

Prior to 1949 there was no alpha code and other methods must be used to date the rifle.

Location of manufacture -
Utica, NY dates it to 1946 or before
Chicopee Falls is 1938-1960
Westfield, Mass is 1960- and later

patent #
single 2094577 patent was registered in 1937
If it contains the patent # RE22585 it is post 1945 (This is a post war reissue patent)

Do you know what the numbers before the date code mean ?

 

[Catt57]

Do you know what the numbers before the date code mean ?

It's generally thought they are Inspector #s