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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Dry pin tumbling ?
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3591142" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>It is just eye candy and heavy stainless does peen the brass a bit.</p><p>I bought stainless pins that were kind of long and those peened the brass to the point I could see it and it did not feel slick.</p><p>I tried BB's in my vibratory with walnut.</p><p>Do not do that.</p><p>Cleaned no better and left some sort of metal dust that stuck to my fingers and everything else.</p><p></p><p>I bought glass beads very small ones to use in the vibratory.</p><p>I had to get a 50lb sack of them and that was expensive.</p><p></p><p>You could run your hand into the bag of glass and it felt like silk.</p><p>The cases took forever to clean in those glass beads but they felt like silk also.</p><p>8 hours of vibrating to get clean and still not as clean as pins.</p><p></p><p>I tried wet pins in my vibratory.</p><p>Yea that was a mess and did not work.</p><p>But I have never tried dry pins.</p><p></p><p>For pin removal I take 1 case in each hand and clack them together 4 times mouths down.</p><p>At the same time i can look at the primer pocket and see if any pins are stuck in them.</p><p></p><p>I use Homemade Copper pins.</p><p>I have always lubed inside the case necks weather it be walnut or pins.</p><p></p><p>I hated the dust of the walnut media and rolled all my walnut cases on a bath towel to remove any dust and Qtipped the insides.</p><p>I did dryer sheets and paper towels and car wax and orange peels in the walnut as experiments.</p><p>Orange peels worked best for me.</p><p></p><p>I never tried corn cob.</p><p></p><p>I will bring you my pin tumbler to use if you want to try it out.</p><p>It is a bit more work than a vibratory.</p><p>Hot days we have today I would lay the brass on the hood of the vehicle on a dark towel to dry.</p><p></p><p>Or just lay it on a towel in the house and next day it is dry.</p><p>My rifle brass all gets annealed after tumbling and that helps dry it out.</p><p></p><p>Is Accuracy better I will say No not any better.</p><p></p><p>Now I did read an article that I am hard pressed to find. It is about throat erosion and carbon left in the case and primer pockets.</p><p></p><p>A bench rest shooter would have to rebarrel or set the barrel back a thread or 2 after I think he said 1500 rounds.</p><p>As he had .020" more lead or something like that and he thought the not so clean brass could be the culprit.</p><p>He experimented with pin tumbled cleaned cases that were spotless vs his vibratory or hand wiped cases.</p><p>With the pin cleaned cases he noticed 1/2 the amount of throat or lead wear.</p><p>He mentioned dried carbon is a very hard substance.</p><p></p><p>That was the gist of it anyway.</p><p>That got me to wanting to get all the carbon out.</p><p></p><p>I do not shoot competition and it should not really matter to me.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3591142, member: 15054"] It is just eye candy and heavy stainless does peen the brass a bit. I bought stainless pins that were kind of long and those peened the brass to the point I could see it and it did not feel slick. I tried BB's in my vibratory with walnut. Do not do that. Cleaned no better and left some sort of metal dust that stuck to my fingers and everything else. I bought glass beads very small ones to use in the vibratory. I had to get a 50lb sack of them and that was expensive. You could run your hand into the bag of glass and it felt like silk. The cases took forever to clean in those glass beads but they felt like silk also. 8 hours of vibrating to get clean and still not as clean as pins. I tried wet pins in my vibratory. Yea that was a mess and did not work. But I have never tried dry pins. For pin removal I take 1 case in each hand and clack them together 4 times mouths down. At the same time i can look at the primer pocket and see if any pins are stuck in them. I use Homemade Copper pins. I have always lubed inside the case necks weather it be walnut or pins. I hated the dust of the walnut media and rolled all my walnut cases on a bath towel to remove any dust and Qtipped the insides. I did dryer sheets and paper towels and car wax and orange peels in the walnut as experiments. Orange peels worked best for me. I never tried corn cob. I will bring you my pin tumbler to use if you want to try it out. It is a bit more work than a vibratory. Hot days we have today I would lay the brass on the hood of the vehicle on a dark towel to dry. Or just lay it on a towel in the house and next day it is dry. My rifle brass all gets annealed after tumbling and that helps dry it out. Is Accuracy better I will say No not any better. Now I did read an article that I am hard pressed to find. It is about throat erosion and carbon left in the case and primer pockets. A bench rest shooter would have to rebarrel or set the barrel back a thread or 2 after I think he said 1500 rounds. As he had .020" more lead or something like that and he thought the not so clean brass could be the culprit. He experimented with pin tumbled cleaned cases that were spotless vs his vibratory or hand wiped cases. With the pin cleaned cases he noticed 1/2 the amount of throat or lead wear. He mentioned dried carbon is a very hard substance. That was the gist of it anyway. That got me to wanting to get all the carbon out. I do not shoot competition and it should not really matter to me. [/QUOTE]
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