Extend rifle case life (measuring)(cheap tool)

[swampratt]

I have spoke of this before but we have new reloaders all the time and
sometimes a good picture or 2 make a difference on how things are perceived .

Now I was only getting 8-10 reloads from my Winchester .308 cases before I would get case head separation.

I set my full length die up just like the instructions stated and what I found was I was pushing the shoulder back .008"-.010"

This was really working the case and allowing the case to flow or grow much more for each firing.
Now you can order a case length gauge or other items to measure shoulder set back.

But I have a very simple approach that is cheap item I incorporated into my reloading room.
It is an Inverted Flare Tube Nut.
You can get these cheap.. less than 3 bucks usually. They have a tapered flare that rests right on the tapered section of the shoulder.
You can get different sizes, your local hardware or auto parts store will have them.

Now that I can measure the fired case I can set my FLS die up to set the shoulder back .001 or set it back none at all.
You can also not twist the die in far enough and pull the shoulder out a couple thousandths.

This is a cheap and easy tool to use and this one Nut will work for my 30-06,.308, .243 and others on the same parent case.

Now that I am not setting the shoulder back .008"-.010" I have not lost a case from case head separation until I fire it 46 times.

Here is a picture to help the above text. Yellow lines point to the taper.

 

[swampratt]

Notice my calipers read 2.245". This is a case I resized a couple years ago without knowing how much I was setting the shoulder back.
My fired cases measure 2.253" .
You must center the nut and case when measuring, takes very little getting used to. Hope this helps save some brass for someone.

 

[DRC458]

Good idea! You buy the appropriate size so that the neck of your case just fits inside the flare nut?

 

[Eagle Eye]

I am a new reloader and greatly value your advice! Thanks for posting pictures too, they help a lot.

 

[swampratt]

That one in the picture for the .308 round is a 3/8".
the ID is .384" and the od of the .308 case neck is about .335"

I get the Flare nut off of fuel line or transmission line.
When I build a new vehicle for myself I sometimes run new steel transmission lines and fuel lines and when I purchase the line from Autozone
I get it in 4 to 6 foot lengths and there is a fitting at each end sometimes I only need the line/tubing.

This leaves me with leftover free stuff.

 

[Fyrtwuck]

How do you use this? Does it screw right into the press?

 

[swampratt]

You just place it on the case after you fire it and note the over all length (OAL) of the case and the flare nut.
Note the picture in post #1 has a dial caliper measuring the OAL 2.245" This was after full length sizing my brass .308 case.

A fired cases measure with the Flare nut installed will measure 2.253" from my gun.

What this told me is that even though I followed the die set up directions I was still pushing my case shoulder back all the way to 2.245" which is .008"

As the Flare nut flare portion contacts the case shoulder right in the middle and gives a measurement.

I used to twist my full length size die in 1/4 turn after it touches the shell holder.
That pushed the shoulder back too far.. Now I only twist it in less than 1/12 of a turn... and I am not pushing my case shoulders back as far.

This flare nut is now a Tool that helps you measure how much you are setting the shoulder back.

 

[Fyrtwuck]

Ok, let's see if I understand this correctly. You are using the flare nut as a measuring device, not a resizing tool?

 

[lee1000]

I've been using a 40 S&W case with a chamfered mouth on 308 brass. Your idea might be better though because the chamfer is deeper.

 

[swampratt]

Correct Frytwuck.
lee1000 that is an excellent idea. You could even flare the mouth with a flare tool or possibly a .50bmg round. Very good idea, glad you shared it.