First AR build (looking for tips)

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JEVapa

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To add to what was just shared I was building my SBR and wanted to hide my silencer inside the forward grip. The silencer Outside Diameter was 1.5" and it was tough to find a "fancy" guard to hide most of the long silencer. Long story short, I called a few of the manufacturers of the pieces I wanted but it had to be RAW, it was already headed for some Bazooka Green makeup. I called Seekins and a young lady answered the phone in what sounded like a small shop. I told her what I was looking for and she yelled across the room to pull one of the hand guards off the line it doesn't need to be finished for this guy. She asked for my credit card info and address and it was on my doorstep less than a week later.

True story, I still have that hand guard as Geisselle tempted me too much.
Seekins is good to go
 

CSeverns

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No matter what parts you get, budget, midlevel, or high end, you need tools.
The right tools count before anything else. Cheap is ok, but not super-cheap stuff...if you go the extra mile to get extra cheap, you end up spending more money replacing your extra-cheap tools.
You also don't need to go buy the latest and greatest high dollar tools because JiffyJeff and TactiTom at KMAWAzoo Machine said so in a video. You don't need to buy an AR multitool for $$$$ because it looks like some sh*t a Klingon would use to dispatch his enemy.

Basic tools kits from Wheeler are great - they sell all this retail and have most tools you need including Action and vice blocks and punch kits.
Brass punch(s)
Torque wrench in ft/lbs - autostore or Wheeler
Torque wrench in in/lbs - autostore or Wheeler
Bench mounted vise
Either a barrel vise or an AR action rod**** - online
Pad...I use a 1'x2' chunk of leather
Bench block - buy one or make several out of hardwood
Small ball peen hammer (light weight)
If you don't get a brass hammer and plastic mallet in a Wheeler kit, you'll need both of these. Small-ish.

AR mutitool/AR Wrench - these are gonna be between $25 and $60ish. Anything above that isn't worth it unless you become a full time Armorer or you're whackin Romulans or other space creatures.

Additional equip plus advice:
Moly Disulfide grease. - autostore, it's called CV grease and one tube will last forever.
MolyDi goes on the barrel nut threads and the receiver extension threads (both Rifle and Carbine). Threadlocker does not go on these ever

You need to download a technical manual...like a 23&P. DL this: TM 9-1005-319-23&P
Link is below. It has all the info you need and then some. AR15.com is not the place for tech info but this manual is.
http://www.combatsimulations.com/ar15/manuals/tm 9-1005-319-23&p.pdf
This one usually will start a never-ending argument but here goes:
Regarding receiver extensions:
A rifle extension is torqued to 35-39 ft/lbs. That is Foot Pounds
A Carbine extension "round plain nut" or "locking nut" (castle nut) is torqued to 38-42 in/lbs. New manual says 40+/-2in/lbs That is Inch Pounds, Not Foot Pounds. Then stake at two notches. The carbine extension doesn't require the strength of Zeus no matter what some guru on AR15.com says.

****don't torque things on a barrel using only an action block. You can get away with an MD and a crush washer but you start torquing an MD for a suppressor, you chance shearing the indexing pin or thrashing the notch in the receiver threads.

Absolutely NO RED THREADLOCKER, throw that crap in the trash. It has no place on an AR. Blue is good for gas block screws, rail screws, etc, green is good for Muzzle Devices.
All good advice to follow.⬆️

@OP You don’t have to spend a ton of money on a new torque wrench either. I found both of mine (one in inch/lbs., one in ft./lbs.) just by looking around at a few pawn shops. Both were in near new condition at about 1/2 the price of what they retail for.

A good AR multi tool like the one from wheeler works very well. Wheeler also makes a good set of punches that are fairly inexpensive. Upper and lower vise blocks can be found pretty cheap too. I’d recommend buying one of those roll pin wizards for installing the bolt catch roll pin as well as your pivot pin springs and detents. If your lower doesn’t have an integrated trigger guard and you’re having to install one yourself, be careful that you don’t damage that part of the lower when installing trigger guard the roll pin. They jut out like ear lobes and if you damage or break one, your whole lower receiver is garbage at that point.

Buy one or two of those AR “oops” kits. They have spare springs, pins, and detents that are commonly lost while building / working on your gun. They also have extra parts that commonly wear out or need replacement on your bolt carrier group. It‘s a good idea to invest in a good BCG. This is the part of the gun that getting the most heat and friction. It also takes more of a beating than any other part of the gun. The average high end BCG from companies like Lantac, JP Enterprises, or Bravo Company will run $200-$300. The average low end BCGs from PSA or AIM Surplus range from $80-$120. Everything in between can be considered mid-tier.

This is a link to a video that will tell you everything you need to know about regular AR-15 maintenance:

 

Cat City Slim

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These comments are based solely on my own experience. If you really want to understand how an AR works, build one. I built my first AR, if I can do it anyone can. Strategy for putting together the parts will depend on your desires for the gun. My first was a parts kit I bought from a discount supplier for $175 dollars on a Black Friday sale. It has ran flawlessly. For the second build, a side charging pistol, I bought a complete upper from a discount supplier. It was cheaper to buy the complete upper than buy the individual parts, and I didn’t feel the need for a lot of bells and whistles. It has also ran flawlessly.

Some good places to look for pats online are ar15discounts, unbrandedar, psa, many others. Take a look at gun.deals, good buys on parts get posted there frequently.

The advice on buying build tools and oops kits up front is well taken.

As a final word, I will readily admit that if I were going into combat with the SEALS, my rifles would not be appropriate. I feel that they will do everything I need reliably, and I saved a lot of money building them myself with budget parts.
 

OKNewshawk

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I went cheap on a set of HFT punches and I regret it now. I need to pick up some roll pin punches. I also recommend a roll of painter's tape, double layered on the side of the receiver when seating the bolt catch roll pin. It keeps the side of the receiver purty.
 

scott024

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A few items to make your life easy on the first build.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ls/punches/roll-pin-punch-set-prod136523.aspx
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007370226?pid=919925
https://www.cdnnsports.com/ar15-armorer-s-super-tool-ncstar.html
These might not be the cheapest, but they are not the most expensive either.

Pre-pandemic, I would have recommended a Ruger MPR as a great first AR. It came with lots of features for a bargain price. They were $600 in 2019. They run just over $800 now. For that price, you can almost get a Colt 6920.
 

Valhallajack

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A few items to make your life easy on the first build.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ls/punches/roll-pin-punch-set-prod136523.aspx
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007370226?pid=919925
https://www.cdnnsports.com/ar15-armorer-s-super-tool-ncstar.html
These might not be the cheapest, but they are not the most expensive either.

Pre-pandemic, I would have recommended a Ruger MPR as a great first AR. It came with lots of features for a bargain price. They were $600 in 2019. They run just over $800 now. For that price, you can almost get a Colt 6920.
I got both tools, thanks
 

Letfreedomring

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While we're on the subject and not trying to thread jack, but does anyone have a good way to remove a crush washer that gets trapped behind the threads? I tried applying upward pressure while "unscrewing" it and eventually ended up cutting it with dremel. Total PIA! Hopefully someone has an easy, simple way that doesn't end up looking like a rat attacked your barrel for future reference.
 

Valhallajack

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While we're on the subject and not trying to thread jack, but does anyone have a good way to remove a crush washer that gets trapped behind the threads? I tried applying upward pressure while "unscrewing" it and eventually ended up cutting it with dremel. Total PIA! Hopefully someone has an easy, simple way that doesn't end up looking like a rat attacked your barrel for future reference.
ask 100 people the same question you may get 100 answers. you found a solution to your problem and that's just fine. I wouldn't think there maybe a better one.
 

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