FrogLube Thoughts?

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What is your preferred Gun Lube?

  • FrogLube

    Votes: 6 17.1%
  • Hoppe's #9

    Votes: 7 20.0%
  • M-Pro 7

    Votes: 1 2.9%
  • Ballistol

    Votes: 10 28.6%
  • Breakfree CLP

    Votes: 11 31.4%

  • Total voters
    35

Shadowrider

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I did my rust test using new engine oil not used stuff.
You guys should read this or at least scroll to the bottom to see the winner.
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I have done the testing of oils and Lubes myself and found Mobil 1 sucks as a rust preventative.
I will be more than happy to do another test as this was after 2007 when they were pulling ZDDP levels lower and changing the additive package.
I used Mobil 1 in all my stuff before that. I have used it since the mid 1980's.

Changed oil in the rider after the change to lower ZDDP and got a bearing squeal and decided Mobil has not got the formula correct and quit using it.
Went to Rotella T6 and no issues and got 2 MPG more in the corolla using T6.
Friend noticed more MPG in 2 vehicles a Honda and a chevy truck switching from Mobil synthetic to Rotella T6

Same friend lost a cam in his 66 vette .. with less than 1500 miles on the rebuild using Mobil 1 synthetic around the same time.
Another friend lost the cam in his nova using a low ZDDP engine oil.
I lost 2 cams back to back during break in with an oil I used for break in just after the ZDDP change.. Additive packages make a huge difference in oils.

I use Joe Gibbs now for break-in but before 2007 it did not matter what I used I never had a cam lifter failure.


Some of the stuff in that additive package create rust.
2 stroke Quicksilver was excellent during my test. I tested like the link above on bare steel plate.
Use what you like best and keep it wiped down it will not really matter much unless you stay in the wet for weeks and never wipe it down. As far as rust is concerned. Now friction is completely different and the above link tests friction.

Take a look at Amsoil. They have a line they call Z-Rod. Better than Mobil-1 and has the additive package for the engines you like to play with. No need to add ZDDP, it's in there like oils back in the day.

For your small stuff use their Formula 4 Stroke. Same deal, full synthetic with the older (and better) additive package that contains a healthy dose of rust preventatives.
 

vitamink12

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This thread reminds me of the "Oil War" threads on many of the motorcycle boards. Folks can get along on most stuff <well, kinda> but question their choice of oil & let the battles begin! :smash: Use what you like but anyone that doesn't use CLP has gotta be crazy!!
 

JD8

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Have used Froglube off an on for 2-3years. Also been working through a bottle of weaponshield. Both work great, just like the 9283912 other products out there that work.

I think the notion that Froglube breaks down and turns to glue is pure horschit. Surely there is some evidence out there if this is true.

Meanwhile.....

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
 

Shadowrider

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Have used Froglube off an on for 2-3years. Also been working through a bottle of weaponshield. Both work great, just like the 9283912 other products out there that work.

I think the notion that Froglube breaks down and turns to glue is pure horschit. Surely there is some evidence out there if this is true.

Meanwhile.....

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I promise you that it does turn to a hardened glue like consistency over time. At least the paste will, I was never real impressed with the liquid form so I've never really used it. My Benelli shotgun didn't want to open after having a nice heavy coating set in place for about a year and it froze my AR trigger group after setting even longer than that. If you use the "seasoning" method with heat and wipe it all off you won't have this problem, but then you don't have any lubrication either. 25 years of machining taught me that unless they make guns out of cast iron, you can forget about it "seeping into the pores of the metal". I can attest to that being pure horsechit too. Metal (steels, aluminum, brass, etc.) doesn't have pores. Some coatings do have a porous matrix like anodize and parkerizing but you won't get very much lubrication with what it will hold. FL does do well on corrosion especially with the "seasoning" method. I think it's a plant based wax quite honestly. I still use it for corrosion and also on my Dillon press on all the plastic cams except for the ring indexer, it gets synthetic grease.
 

JD8

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I promise you that it does turn to a hardened glue like consistency over time. At least the paste will, I was never real impressed with the liquid form so I've never really used it. My Benelli shotgun didn't want to open after having a nice heavy coating set in place for about a year and it froze my AR trigger group after setting even longer than that. If you use the "seasoning" method with heat and wipe it all off you won't have this problem, but then you don't have any lubrication either. 25 years of machining taught me that unless they make guns out of cast iron, you can forget about it "seeping into the pores of the metal". I can attest to that being pure horsechit too. Metal (steels, aluminum, brass, etc.) doesn't have pores. Some coatings do have a porous matrix like anodize and parkerizing but you won't get very much lubrication with what it will hold. FL does do well on corrosion especially with the "seasoning" method. I think it's a plant based wax quite honestly. I still use it for corrosion and also on my Dillon press on all the plastic cams except for the ring indexer, it gets synthetic grease.

I think we come from two different anecdotes here. I have used Froglube in the manner it was intended, and per the instructions, I have had no issues. The consistency would have changed over the 2-3 years I've used it, if your experiences were universal. However, it is no different than the day I bought it. I didn't cake it on though either as I said. It's on two ARs I built and again, no issues.

In terms of "pores" I don't think they state that, however, they DO state it fills in gaps on a microscopically uneven surface. Had enough chemistry back in the day to know that is true.

Gonna have to disagree with your theory on there not being enough lube after wiping it off. Runs a Les Baer just fine from my experience and that gun still doesn't break down by hand.
 

Shadowrider

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I think we come from two different anecdotes here. I have used Froglube in the manner it was intended, and per the instructions, I have had no issues. The consistency would have changed over the 2-3 years I've used it, if your experiences were universal. However, it is no different than the day I bought it. I didn't cake it on though either as I said. It's on two ARs I built and again, no issues.

In terms of "pores" I don't think they state that, however, they DO state it fills in gaps on a microscopically uneven surface. Had enough chemistry back in the day to know that is true.

Gonna have to disagree with your theory on there not being enough lube after wiping it off. Runs a Les Baer just fine from my experience and that gun still doesn't break down by hand.

I used it per the instructions also. Heat with hair dryer just like on their website videos. Then applied a film to heavy wear areas just like it says on the container.

How often are you breaking down and reapplying? I think that's the key. If you stop and think about it, FL was developed by a Navy SEAL for military use. They don't go for long without giving the weapon some care. If you do that, you're not going to have the problems I did. But I don't have those problems with good synthetic based or petroleum based lubes, so I'll leave the environmentally kosher lubes to others.
 

swampratt

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Here is something to really think about with lubes.

Lube is to make moving parts move easier.
You allow a contaminate to get in with that lube you have just created lapping compound. You will get wear.
I use as little lube as possible.

Something that is dry and does not allow dirt or carbon to adhere to it is even better.

My motorcycle chains were not lasting long..An old man asked if I lubed them I said YES.
He said do you clean all the dirt and grime off the chains first.. I said NO!
He said you are making grinding compound every time you add lube to the dirty chain.

Made sense. I was 18 at the time. ..I see how dirty a fired gun gets and all that crap mixed with the lube..You sure need to clean guns after a range session.

I got a pistol of the same make and model of one I already owned.
I just wanted 2.. my round count was 10x more than this newer one I was getting.

The newer one had 10x more wear.

Just things to think about.. lube is just so good for so long then you get grinding compound.
 

Dalejbrass

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I tried it and did not like it. Worked okay on my AR's...but it gummed up and jammed a couple Glocks and my 1911's wouldn't run cold at all. Currently using Lucas Gun Oil that was given to me. Really like it. Next will simply be a quart of Mobile 1. Should last me forever.
 

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