G23 Reloading - That horse isnt dead yet...

[WhiteyMacD]

I know there is a thread about glocked brass/kaboom, but I have to ask one more time for clarification.

I have talked to some serious reloaders and got several different stories.

One side tells me to never shoot g23 brass through a g23. Kaboom!

The other side tells me it is fine as long as you aren't dealing with max loads and the brass looks good (no cracks).

So:

1.) Any G22/23/27/35 (w/ factory barrel) owners out there reloading their glocked brass?
2.) Is it ok to do it?
3.) If not, would using something like a Redding GRx push through die make it ok?

Please keep this on topic...

Thanks.

 

[flatwins]

This was a concern for me since I was trying to reload brass shot thru my 27. It was no surprise that I found several cases that were "Glocked". I have since purchased a Lone Wolf barrel in order to combat this problem. Having said that, I have not shot that particular gun enough lately to investigate the brass closely. But if one compares the way that a stock barrel supports the shell as compared to a Lone Wolf, it is a large difference. I'm hoping to see some favorable results.

 

[WhiteyMacD]

This was a concern for me since I was trying to reload brass shot thru my 27. It was no surprise that I found several cases that were "Glocked". I have since purchased a Lone Wolf barrel in order to combat this problem. Having said that, I have not shot that particular gun enough lately to investigate the brass closely. But if one compares the way that a stock barrel supports the shell as compared to a Lone Wolf, it is a large difference. I'm hoping to see some favorable results.

Do you shoot any cast lead? I was wondering, with the supported chamber and tighter tolerance, is there feed issues with the lone wolfs?

As you may tell, this route I am also investigating.

Nervous about GKabooms. I plan on either being a neurosurgeon or a soda jerk, either way I gotta protect these hands. -Jethro Bodine

 

[Glocktogo]

I'd stay away from crappy brass (PMC, A-Merc, etc), and realize that the brass simply isn't going to last as long. I'd also opt for the EGU undersize sizing die to minimize oversized brass issues. They lock the gun up tight and take some pounding to get out.

My bestr recommendation would be to spring for the aftermarket barrel to eliminate the issue. Keep in mind that the chembers are tighter as well as being more supported, making the undersize die even more worthwhile.

 

[POSITIVE DISCONTENT]

NO problems if you use an aftermarket barrel.

 

[338Shooter]

Do the 9mm glocks not have a fully supported chamber too? I found a piece of 9mm brass that was bulged and broken near the case head. I couldn't figure out what had happened and after looking up "glocked brass" that is what the brass looked like. I wish I wouldn't have thrown it out now.

 

[Glocktogo]

9mm Glocks have much more support on the chamber. I'm not aware of any issues on those.

 

[POSITIVE DISCONTENT]

9mm Glocks have much more support on the chamber. I'm not aware of any issues on those.

The Glocks in 357sig bulged or just burned the ends off and they are supposed to be better supported also....

 

[GUN DOG]

I reload for 40 & 357 sig but I use lead & a lonewolf barrel. I also do not run hot loads, 9mm speed roughly & I haven't had a problem

 

[Hawgman]

This is what I've learned by doing it. First of all, glocks tend to have a SLIGHTLY larger diameter chamber and yes, a little less support at the 6 o'clock position. The less support at the 6 o'clock is where this term "unsupported case" comes from. I've compared a number of barrels removed from various semi-autos and inserting a cartrige in the chamber. To my eye, glocks do not have an egregious lack of support at the 6 o'clock compared to some other guns. I've seen a couple as unsuppoted or even less so. My kimber 1911 would definately fall into the "unsupported" catagory. This is just my conclusion: With the looser chamber tolerance AND the feed ramp angle being somewhat continued into the chamber area AND the .40s&w operating at a fairly high pressure, it's common to have a slight to moderate bulge in the web of the fired case running from the 4 o'clock to 7 o'clock position. This ramp/chamber configuration is one reason glocks have the "goes bang everytime" even under horrid conditions reputation; but it does stress brass.
Three ways to go:
1) Buy and after market barrel with a tighter chamber and slightly more abrupt feed ramp angle (I personnaly prefer Lone Wolf or KKM with KKM being a more refined product). If you fire brand new never before fired cartridges in a barrel like this...no bulge to deal with. And you can shoot lead.

If you've already fired the brass in glock barrel:
2) Get an undersized sizing die. They're sold by a company called CGW or something like that. They size .001 smaller that spec. but you may wind up with a thin rim of brass build up at the very heal of the case. I ground down the shell holder SLIGHTLY so the case was inserted just far enough into the sizing die to press out that bulge.
3) I believe it's redding that sells a sizing die/shell holder combo that FULLY sizes by shoving the brass clear through the die and out the top of the press. I've not tried it but had I seen it before the undersized die, I would have tried it first. Still may get one one day.

All this is of course try at your own best judgement. It's just what I've worked out through research/trial and error. Also, I reload semi-autos on the mild to moderate side. Always have. Mostly to get the most life out of the brass and gun. Revolvers tend to handle the heavy loads better. This was sort of long but I wanted to help by passing on what I've had to piece together about reloading the .40 in a glock.