Garage heads advice needed

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Perplexed

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I’ll start off with the text of the email I sent to the maker of this industrial light fixture I bought at an antique store:

“Recently I acquired an explosion proof light made by Crouse-Hinds; from what I can make out on the tag, it is the model EVA 115 M2 (see attached picture). I am in the process of converting this light into a table lamp, but while disassembling the light, I ran into an issue with the housing and the base. I would like to get to the wiring where it is attached to the light bulb socket, but I cannot figure out how to separate the bell-shaped portion of the housing from the portion of the base that terminates in a hex-shaped extension with a stamped logo. I removed a set screw in the side of the housing where it seems the base screws into the housing, and I applied a liberal amount of PB Blaster both into the set screw hole and all around the gap where the base and housing meet, and I clamped the hex-shaped extension of the base in a vise. Then I used a Klein strap wrench on the housing right above the base, but I could not get the housing to budge. At all. I even removed both set screws from the base though I can't see what they have to do with separating the two items, but I still cannot get the base and housing separated.

Can you offer any tips on getting this done, please? Is there a hidden set screw somewhere, or is the threaded portion left-handed such that turning right loosens it, or is it simply a friction fit with no threads, or what?”

Their response was that the base is indeed threaded, and it is a right-hand thread, and it may need “a lot of muscle” to loosen up the two pieces. Here’s a pic of the fixture in question, with the two parts indicated and the gap between the two as well. I had the strap wrench cinched down tightly so there was no movement, but even with whacking on the handle of the wrench, I could not get the housing to budge. This even after I filled up the interior of the threaded portion with enough PB Blaster that I’m pretty sure the interior space is swimming in the stuff. I may end up having to cut through the gap with a hacksaw, and insert a thin-walled tube to keep the two parts together after I finish the conversion. The whole thing is galvanized pot metal, btw. Before I do anything so drastic, do you folks have any advice on how to get the two components apart in a non-destructive manner?

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FreeSpiritBalloon

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Have you tried a heat gun? That would be my next step and if that didn’t work I might go with vibration from an air hammer but too hard and it will probably crack.


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adamsredlines

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Heat is probably going to be your friend. Those look old, the threads are probably just seized up.

Also, PB blaster isnt all that great. You could look into some more "industrial" penetrating lubes.
 

NightShade

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My guess is that the pot metal has in some way welded itself together, since pot metal formula can vary if the two parts came off of different lines at different times it could be a form of galvanic corrosion. You could try and get a cheater on it for some more force but at some point you run the risk of breaking it. Heat may help but getting it too hot can cause problems as well.

A quick search comes across a video where someone was doing something similar with a smaller fixture where the same issue came in to play. The solution was to drill out the guts on the original one and use a different style porcelain for the bulb to sit in. Not sure what the inside looks like but if it is large enough to do so I would run that direction as well rather than to run the risk of causing more damage than would be good to the outside.

 

Perplexed

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Thanks for the comments, folks. I did try a heat gun to the point the upper housing was hot to the touch, and the oil in the gap was starting to bubble, but to no avail.

The light socket in this particular housing is inserted from inside out - there’s no way to get to it unless I can separate the two components, or I do some cutting of the metal flange surrounding the socket.

I was afraid someone would mention galvanic corrosion. Looks like some cutting may be necessary, unless I try a different penetrating lube. Any recommendations? Keep in mind there’s only the gap between the two parts which would be about 1/16” wide, and a set screw hole about 3/8” in diameter, where I can apply any lube.
 

Cowcatcher

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Maybe tap around it with a hammer while you hold pressure with your strap wrench.
You may even be able to hit the vise to send a little vibration to the threads.
 

SdoubleA

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Before you cut......try this remedy I have used for years.

Use brake fluid. Soak the area in brake fluid and let it set for an hour or so...then try your strap wrench. If it doesn't loosen up...reapply and soak a few minutes longer. This method has usually worked for me. Your PB blaster is more of a joke than most think.
 

Perplexed

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Well, at this point, I’ll try anything. I used a lab syringe to add brake fluid through the set screw hole till the fluid was leaking out through the threads. I’ll see if that works.
 

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