Hair Trigger On Police S&W Special

[John6185]

I have a Police S&W Special .38 and it has a hair trigger-someone probably did a little work on the weapon. But I'd like to know if anyone has ever tried to fix a hair trigger on such a weapon and how difficult it is??
I would think that this particular revolver is somewhat easy to work on and I'm hoping I can take the mechanism aside and do a little filing to return it to satisfactory trigger pull.
I just don't want to discharge the gun accidentally.

 

[65ny]

Lots of those old revolvers have had the rebound springs replaced or shortened and/or the main (hammer) springs replaced or modified. Sometimes, the mainspring screw will have been shortened or backed out some. All of these are easy fixes. You can order the springs from wolf, numrich, or several other places and replace them yourself.

Check out this thread: https://www.okshooters.com/threads/...-disassembly-deep-clean-and-reassembly.98175/

 

[Glocktogo]

You can also recut the SA notch on the hammer and re-profile the shelf on the trigger, assuming someone didn't already stone them past serviceable specs.

 

[dlbleak]

lots of good vids on youtube also. watch one on how to get the sideplate off first. nothing like buggered screw heads and a pried off sideplate to kill some value! they are pretty simple to work on.

 

[Buzzdraw]

While you are looking at videos find one that shows you how to check for hammer push off.

 

[SPDguns]

Check it for push-off. If the SA hammer notch is worn, the hammer usually can't be replaced. They are surface hardened and if someone has cut through the surface hardening to do a "trigger job", the soft metal underneath is exposed and the hammer is trashed. In addition, this is a very difficult notch to cut and make safe or you will have that "AD" you mentioned. And, if you are successful, the hammer notch will eventually wear and you are right back where you started.

If the trigger has been improperly cut and it's not too bad, it can sometimes be re-cut. The best practice is to replace both the hammer and trigger together as a set. You may get lucky and they drop right in and you're ready to go, but sometimes they require minor fitting.

 

[CutBaitNBlowSh*tUp4ALivin]

Brownells sells a J-frame upgrade kit that takes it from 12# to 9#. I wonder if installing this kit would bump yours up to a 9#?

Sent via Tapatalk

 

[Buzzdraw]

Check it for push-off. If the SA hammer notch is worn, the hammer usually can't be replaced. They are surface hardened and if someone has cut through the surface hardening to do a "trigger job", the soft metal underneath is exposed and the hammer is trashed. In addition, this is a very difficult notch to cut and make safe or you will have that "AD" you mentioned. And, if you are successful, the hammer notch will eventually wear and you are right back where you started.

If the trigger has been improperly cut and it's not too bad, it can sometimes be re-cut. The best practice is to replace both the hammer and trigger together as a set. You may get lucky and they drop right in and you're ready to go, but sometimes they require minor fitting.

All good practice. I generally won't touch the hammer SA notch because it's so tiny. The old style hammer with firing pin parts are getting scarce and expensive, which is another reason to leave them alone.

 

[John6185]

Thanks for all your replies, I'm going to take the .38 apart and see what the Cop did to the weapon. Maybe it's a simple, fix a little filing and done. We'll see.