Headed to Lexington gun range

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okierider

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So had fun , ran some of the independence aluminum case 45acp ball in my 1911 and M&P shield to see how it ran. Both guns ran through it great.
Been working on an ATR100 30-06 I bought. Adjusted the trigger and worked the poly stock where it was rubbing the barrel. Was causing erratic groups.
Any how I fixed the issue and got the groups to 1.5 at 100 yrds with no rest and monarch ammo, was just propped on my range bag which was not great .
Received an actual bean bag rest I was waiting on, so next trip I hope I can get the groups better.
 

swampratt

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I have a 100atr 30-06.. kicks like a mule.
I use 52.5gr IMR 4064 and 150gr flat base bullets in annealed R-P cases and CCI 200 primers.
Another load is in the same cases with BR2 primers setting off 53gr of 4064 with 155A-Max set at 3.280" for 2980 FPS.
Those loads were worked up in my gun and will shoot MOA or better out to 500 yards.

Many of my 100 yard groups are in the .75" area and then take it to 200 and get the same .75" or tighter group.
Weather or I should say temperature does not adversely affect the group size with that powder in that load range.

Necks are VLD chamfered and are all brushed with a clean spinning nylon brush then swabbed with a Qtip before seating a bullet.

Neck Id is held at .002" smaller than bullet diameter.
Sort cases by Neck ID for best groups.

That is all I got for your 100 ATR

Another bullet that is not real finicky is the 165 game king HP BT. long bearing surface No lead exposed on the tip.
Puts down every deer and coon I shot with it.
 

okierider

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Shield shoots great, kick is slightly more than my 1911, and accuracy is fine for what it is for. 25 yrds and under is no problem, 50 yrds not so hot LOL.
 

okierider

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Thanks swampratt, I am in the process of learning about reloading and purchasing the loading gear. Definitely appreciate the load info.
Read the reloading guide here and in the process of reading the Lyman's manual now. I love tinkering with my guns,repairing clocks and such and learning about this stuff seems right in line. My favorite gun to shoot is my 54cal patch and ball black powder so I think reloading for my 45's and the ATR will ramp up the enjoyment.
 

swampratt

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I Like my patch and ball also I also Like the Powerbelt bullets in my muzzleloaders.

One thing I did to shrink my groups in 1/2 with patch and ball was a trick I came up with using very thick leather scrap.
Say 3/16" or thicker.
I made a punch from a 12 point socket to punch out round discs from leather that measure .010" over bore size.
I place the leather was between the powder and patched round ball.

Way better than felt or cardboard discs when it came to accuracy.[Broken External Image]

i263.photobucket.com_albums_ii146_6jeffswish_homemadebullet002.jpg


My homemade bullets next to a power belt 295gr HP.
I made the mold to coppy the powerbelt shape and size.
Pillow ticking with and without the leather patch.

i263.photobucket.com_albums_ii146_6jeffswish_andballsandpatch007.jpg
i263.photobucket.com_albums_ii146_6jeffswish_andballsandpatch008.jpg
 
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okierider

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So the leather disks helped accuracy with ball? And did you have to re-work the powder measure that your gun liked when you added the leather?
 

swampratt

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No reworking of the load.
I thought of the leather because I was burning patches and thought if I could avoid that accuracy would improve and I did not have
any felt or cardboard patches but I did have leather scraps.
I thought what if there was no spare cloth to use on your round balls 150 years ago what would those guys use.
I thought I bet they had spare trim pieces of leather from the hides they tanned.

Yea I probably put too much thought into it.

Buddy in Colorado has a large bore muzzle loader and tried all kinds of loads and patches and felt wads and other stuff to make it shoot.
It would not shoot at all... talking couch cushion at 50 yards.

I told him to measure the bore and I would make him some leather wads.
When he tried them he no longer hated the gun.
Less than milk jug at 50.

Worth trying that is for sure.. well if you have scrap.
Something else we discovered with the muzzle loaders is the crud ring issues.

Found out when we quit using Bore butter TC1000 we no longer got a crud ring.

Now I use 50/50 coconut oil and candle wax for my patches and wads, and to season the bore.
I have also used the same oil I use in my regular rifles like CLP and No crud ring.
I will never use Bore butter on stuff again.
Quite a few friends quit using it also,, found the same thing out.

Yea I am ate up with it.

The above picture with the full intact patches and 2 leather wads were recovered after shooting.
You could reuse the leather wads.

If it is too small of diameter you can tap it with a hammer on a hard surface and the leather will get larger in diameter.
 

okierider

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I have talked to a couple of others who have stopped using bore butter as well! Thanks for all the info, now I need to get to the saddle shop and get some scrap!! Getting that BP itch with all this LOL
 

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