Heating the house. Some things overlooked.

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Forgalspop

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When it is like this if you are able to do so you can get in the attic and push a section of fiberglass insulation up into the wind turbine hole.
This is as good as bagging it.
Easier to remove in the summer also.
Had not thought off that. In fact I have extra bats of insulation in the attic left over from covering the porch areas in the attic that were not insulated when the house was built. I'll get up in the attic today and try to do so. Only problem might be reaching the turbines as they are on the roof peak. I might have to use one of my extendable poles and attach the insulation to the end of the pole to reach the turbines. Thanks for the idea!
 

swampratt

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Sometimes we think we need to bag things when corking it works just as well.

You may be able to use a broom as the bristles may hold the insulating pretty good if you pull the paper off.
 

turkeyrun

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Today would be a good day for you to bag those turbines.


When Did retired, he downsized and moved. The house he bought, did not gave central heat and air.

Scheduled an install. Mid-June when they came out. The Tech looks around and asks if he wanted 3 turbines installed?
Dad asks how much and Tech told him NO CHARGE. I don't want to be in that attic without them.
 

dennishoddy

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When I roofed my house (Myself) I stuck plenty of roof turbines on it. I had 5.
The house was built in 1974 and like always happens in these older homes I got a busted water line under the concrete.

I fixed that with Pex ran into the attic and I laid fiberglass insulation over it.

Well cold air just falls from the sky and I had one vent almost over that pex.
There was 3 feet of space between the Pex and the roof decking.
Still that cold air falling would freeze that water line.

I removed that turbine.
I am down to 4 and during cold winter days I bag them as I also have a gable vents and soffit vents and 14+" of insulation in the attic.

You can sure feel the heat difference in this 2 story when you bag the turbines.

People say it is not good to do that.. well I have tested humidity bagged and not bagged and there is ZERO difference in my attic.

If I re-roof this house again it is getting steel.
Same goes for all my houses.
Our home is a ranch style in the country. Our AC was having problems keeping up in the summer even though it was sized perfectly for the square footage and we have major insulation in the walls and attic.
One warm spring day when on a ladder on the 14' ceilings to change the ceiling fan direction for summer, noticed a considerable temperature difference from human level on the floor to ceiling heat. Put a thermometer in the attic and it read 145 degrees with the outside temperature at 80 degrees.
There were soffit vents every 10 feet or so, but no roof vents, so I installed thermostatically controlled fans in the gables that also operate when there is too much humidity in the attic for air flow typically during the winter.
I set the temperature to turn on at 110 degrees and humidity at 60%.
I've been amazed that on a sunny day in the winter when it gets up to 70 degrees or so the temperature in the attic will kick on the gable fans. The louvers direct the air down towards the ground. One can stand under the exhaust in the yard and feel the heat.
Gable fans work much better than passive vents on the roof. There are powered vents available to install on the steep roofs with the proper flashing that are way better than any number of passive vents installed.
They don't cost hardly anything to run and will decrease the utility bills.
 

Oklahomabassin

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Do you have firewood?
20220206_114952.jpg
 

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