Hey bullet casters

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

clintbailey

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Aug 8, 2009
Messages
2,582
Reaction score
5,756
Location
Cheyenne, OK
Thinking about easing into casting some bullets, and looking for advice on bullet moulds for a beginner. Til I get some experience, I'll probably just start with some for my 38/357's, and maybe some 44's. Just looking for a good brand to start with...Lee, Lyman, RCBS, etc? I have seen a couple of reviews expressing trouble with the sprue plate latch or something on the newer Lee moulds breaking in short order. I'm thinking I would like a 6 cavity 158 gr SWC setup. Thanks in advance for any opinions!
 

aviator41

Sharpshooter
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
5,004
Reaction score
115
Location
Edmond/Guthrie
Use lee molds exclusivley and can verify sprue plate levers breaking. Bt Lee has fantastic service and has replaced every one that I broke without question. Story is they had a bad batch. Stuff happens. They've always taken excellent care of their customers.

Their aluminum molds require more attention when you use them as they ding and dent easily. Break em in easy, follow the directions and use good lead at the right price. Cast your first set and let them soak in the mold to heat it up. Drop them out and know they go back into the pot and are not good bullets. After a few rounds, you will get good bullets. Drop
them into water to cool.

38 is a good cal to start with dropping 158gr pills. Only one better would be 230gr 451's You will have people say to start with a two cavity mold THEN graduate to a 6 cavity. I started with 6's right off the bat and ruined my first mold as I learned, though it continued to drop good bullets to the end. I still use it on occasion, but it's been replaced. I drop 125gr 358's now by the truckload. The wife and I each have a mold and can outpage what our little 20lb bottom pour pot can do. Make sure to lube em up. Liquid Alox is easy to use and makes excellent bullets. If done right, the bullets won't be sticky at all, but will have plenty of lube to prevent leading. Just a tiny bit is all you need. it can be thinned slightly with mineral spirits.


Oh, and flux your lead, regardless of where it comes from. an old candle, some sawdust and a good hefty stir to keep the tin mixed in. Don't try this inside.

Wear welding gloves. ALWAYS - don't even forget just once. Youre dealing with serious burn hazard here. It's no joke. Never put wet ANYTHING, even damp stuff into a pot thats up to temp or you will get a visit from the tinsel fairy. (lead splatter all over the walls)

What questions do you have?
 

Okie4570

Sharpshooter
Staff Member
Special Hen Moderator Moderator
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
22,922
Reaction score
24,753
Location
NWOK
Aviator covered it all pretty much. I started off with a Lyman 480gr .458 pointed bullet mold. Lead was plentiful and cheap back then.
 

clintbailey

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Aug 8, 2009
Messages
2,582
Reaction score
5,756
Location
Cheyenne, OK
1: I plan to start by just melting down the wheel weights I have gathered so far (3 buckets, not sorted) into ingots. I have read to flux with wax or whatever, and skim the trash/clips/etc, so I think I'm good there. Just have to figure out what needs added to up the hardness factor. And I will get some good gloves, and I already have long sleeved FRC shirts for work to wear. And plan on using my turkey fryer setup outside to do all this.

2: I have heard Lee is really good at correcting any faults with their equipment, and since their stuff is cheaper, figured they would be a good place to start. My concern was about material of mould, like aluminum vs steel vs cast iron, and which is easier to get good bullets with.

3: I may not start out doing it, but are the electric pots with bottom pour a good deal? Don't look real expensive, and I assume the lead comes straight out of bottom spout into mould holes? Just thought they may be a little cleaner route.

4: I need to do more research, and have never shot any personally, but how much better, more difficult, etc, would it be to go the powder coat route, vs lubing everything? Just a thought, seems pretty popular now, and lots talk of no leading and going a little hotter with loads.

Thanks for the advice so far!
 

Pulp

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
2,057
Reaction score
688
Location
Valliant, OK
Invest in a thermometer. When melting wheel weights keep your temp under 700 degrees. Some wheel weights are zinc. You don't want your temp hot enough to melt the zinc. Any thing that floats get it out ASAP.
 

swampratt

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
12,719
Reaction score
19,274
Location
yukon ok
I like to pull the zinc weights from my buckets before i even start melting.
I melt the lead outside over a BBQ pit once the lead starts melting i add more to the stainless steel pot.
I mix with a long stainless spoon.
When the steel clips float i fetch them out with a big speaker magnet and my welding gloves on my hands.

I pour the molten lead into muffin pans or other things i have for ingots.
I use vice grips i clamp onto the pot for a handle.

I clamp them on the pot when the lead is ready to pour.
Again welding gloves on.

Make sure no sprinkles or sweat rolling off your forehead gets into the pot.

My buddy wants to get a pot of lead melting and from 30 feet away wants to rig a line that trips a cup of water into the lead just to see it explode.
That should be a safety video.. have some plastic or a jacket hanging close by to see the damage the lead does to it.

Use common sense and safety glasses along with long sleeve shirt and gloves.

I have poured lead for over 30 years and once you get the hang of it it is easy as pie.
 

clintbailey

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Aug 8, 2009
Messages
2,582
Reaction score
5,756
Location
Cheyenne, OK
Swampratt, you make a good point about sweat dripping in, never thought about that as a way to introduce unwanted moisture...maybe thats one reason a lot of guys do their smelting in winter? And if I were to use just a cheap aluminum cupcake pan as an ingot mould, is there anything I have to do as a "release agent" first? Or will the lead contract as it cools enough to dump out easily?
 

Blitzfike

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 16, 2006
Messages
2,096
Reaction score
10
Location
Tuttle, OK
Aluminum usually gets soft as it anneals from the heat of the molten lead. The cups start to deform rapidly. I recommend using the steel muffin pans, the ones with non stick coatings help, but don't breathe the fumes as it cooks off. I also use the old cast iron corn molds made for cornbread that looks like an ear of corn cut longitudinally. They work really well, but should never be used for food purposes after having lead in them.
 

Calamity Jake

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
889
Reaction score
170
Location
Okla. City
Water drops on top of the melted lead will not explode it will just boil off----------------- get a drop under the surface and you will get
a steam explosion right now.
A cast iron muffin or cornbread pan is about the best ingot mold. Do not use the aluminum, plated steel or coated steel pans
there nothing but trouble.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom