Hey Smith and Wesson guys???

Honey Badger

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I picked up a nice little 64-2 last night for $450.00. It has the 1 7/8 barrel. The detent that holds the extractor rod doesn’t look right to me. Do you think this was a smith and Wesson job? Or some shade tree gunsmith work? Also the serial number on the crane matches the serial number on the left side frame of the grip. But it doesn’t match the serial number on the bottom grip where most smiths are serialized. Is that usual for the model 64-2 snubs? Thanks in advance.
 

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zipty6

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It's not unusual for the pin on the back of the ejector locking lug to stick out some. That's longer than you usually see on a J frame, but if it works then I wouldn't worry about it.

The numbers in your second picture are assembly numbers - not the serial number. Assembly numbers like this appear on the yoke , underside of the sideplate, and sometimes a few other locations. They are used to keep the pieces together during the assembly process. The actual serial number is on the bottom of the grip. On most modern S&W revolvers it also appears above the model number in the frame's yoke cutout.


EDIT:
I just noticed that it's a K frame 64-2, not a J frame 642. Sorry about that. I still wouldn't worry about it. I have several k frames with the pin protruding in that manner.
 
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Honey Badger

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It's not unusual for the pin on the back of the ejector locking lug to stick out some. That's longer than you usually see on a J frame, but if it works then I wouldn't worry about it.

The numbers in your second picture are assembly numbers - not the serial number. Assembly numbers like this apear on the yoke , underside of the sideplate, and sometimes a few other locations. They are used to keep the pieces together during the assembly process. The actual serial number is on the bottom of the grip. On most modern S&W revolvers it also appears above the model number in the frame's yoke cutout.
Awesome sir! Great info. Thank you for your insight.
 

TheDoubleD

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Check extractor rod to make sure it is screwed in all the way.
Check yoke and make sure it is not bent. Checking bolt freely enters end of ejector rod (rod bent-misaligned)
Check center pin for free travel.
Check Center pin enters center pin hole in recoil shield.
Check locking bolt for free travel.

If it passes these check it is probably just fine. But it should not protrude so much,
 

HFS

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Check extractor rod to make sure it is screwed in all the way.
Check yoke and make sure it is not bent. Checking bolt freely enters end of ejector rod (rod bent-misaligned)
Check center pin for free travel.
Check Center pin enters center pin hole in recoil shield.
Check locking bolt for free travel.

If it passes these check it is probably just fine. But it should not protrude so much,
Probably talking out my hindquarters here but is the ejector rod on a Smith reverse threaded?
I remember hearing somebody talking about having to put a drop of loctite on theirs one time.
 

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