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The Range
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Hornady lock n load classic kit
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<blockquote data-quote="Rez Exelon" data-source="post: 3491781" data-attributes="member: 5800"><p>So I'll speak to what I use when I got through my process. Typically I reload single-stage because I do a bunch of big bore crap and prefer them one at a time.</p><p></p><p>1. Some kind of a press with a universal decap die. I like RCBS for this, but LEE would work as well. Just something to poke the primers out of brass from the range. I do this first, so I don't want my dies getting funky with range dirt, grit etc.</p><p>2. Tumbler/Ultrasonic. This is a preferential thing I suppose, but depending, I'll do an ultrasonic bath, which does real well (I used a Hornady 2L IIRC) but then I'll dry the cases and run them through a tumbler to get a nice second clean and polish. </p><p>3. Trays to hold cartridges when you are working. Almost any will do unless you have some big crap like Lapua or 500S&W. </p><p>4. Case prep stuff. I'll just put a list here. Some way to trim, chamfer, deburr, ream primer pockets, etc etc. I do this different than most I'm sure. I got a mini lathe and a drill chuck adapter. Then I can use the jaws to clamp onto a lee case trimmer, primer pocket cleaner, etc etc for whatever I want to do. I got it for less than the cost of a Lyman case prep center or something similar. I'm never had issues with Lee case prep products for case trimming, but I also use RCBS a lot here too. </p><p>5. Dies -- You'll need these here. I just use Hornady because they've always been fine for me (and you get a box of 100 bullets with their purchase via mail in rebate if they bring it back this year). I've also got RCBS, Pacific, etc etc. The question would be if you got carbide dies that would allow you to skip case lube if desired. I don't have fancy dancy dies except in the case of my 9mm. So long story short, I use case lube. What I do here is a mix of lanolin oil and 90% isopropyl in a spray bottle. Works great, and is much cheaper than fancy stuff.</p><p>6. Press - Lots of ways to go here. If you could get a 650 that'd be super cool. I have a couple of Lee Breech Lock Challenger presses that work well, and an antique Texan single stage as well. I am on the lookout for a turret or progressive though to do for more "common calibers" rather than these small batch fancy dancy calibers I use. </p><p>7. Good Die locks rings. To me, these are important. Once you get something dialed in you want it to stay there. Doesn't have to be a fancy brand, just has to work. </p><p>8. Powder and primers and bullets are important.</p><p>7. Calipers --- I have a few types. Gear Wrench, Mitutoyo, Amazon special. Just make sure they go to .000 inches. I have digital and analogue, but tend to use the Gear Wrench digital. You'll want good quality measurements.</p><p>9. Powder measure. Again, lots of ways you can go here. I have an old fashioned dropper, but tend to use a digital. The one I have is a Hornady Auto Charge. I wouldn't get it again. It's kind of +/- .1 (sometimes .2) grains. And I like my tolerances tighter. It's convenient to get it close but I weight/adjust each change manually on an AWS milligram scale. </p><p>10. More seating dies (optional) - If you might be doing different seating depths then it might be good to get extra seating dies so that you can lock in a measurement on one and experiment on the other. </p><p>11. A kinetic hammer, RCBS collet puller or some other method to pull bullets apart. I like my RCBS puller a lot --- much quieter and more wife-friendly than a kinetic hammer. For the base + all the collets I needed I'm in it for like $120 versus the 20 of a hammer though. But $100 is cheap for a happier wife.</p><p>12. REALLY GOOD LOAD BOOKS. They don't have to be the newest as long as they have the data for your caliber. But try to get newer if available. More books the better. I compare load data across books for reference. The Hodgdon reloading website is a gold mine of data though. I do NOT recommend getting electronic books here. If SHTF then you want paper books. </p><p></p><p>I'm probably missing a lot of stuff here, but that's hopefully some basics to get going. Note that I'm not an uber precision guy. My stuff turns out how I want it and I make improvements here and there where and when I can. Out of the whole list, where I'd spend most is the best press you can get and the best powder measure you can get. If I had to spend money on a powder measure right now I'd likely go with the RCBS Chargemaster (and still have the AWS scale secondary). Remember, it doesn't matter how good your prep is, you'll blow your toys up with too much powder, and can screw things up just as bad if there's too little.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rez Exelon, post: 3491781, member: 5800"] So I'll speak to what I use when I got through my process. Typically I reload single-stage because I do a bunch of big bore crap and prefer them one at a time. 1. Some kind of a press with a universal decap die. I like RCBS for this, but LEE would work as well. Just something to poke the primers out of brass from the range. I do this first, so I don't want my dies getting funky with range dirt, grit etc. 2. Tumbler/Ultrasonic. This is a preferential thing I suppose, but depending, I'll do an ultrasonic bath, which does real well (I used a Hornady 2L IIRC) but then I'll dry the cases and run them through a tumbler to get a nice second clean and polish. 3. Trays to hold cartridges when you are working. Almost any will do unless you have some big crap like Lapua or 500S&W. 4. Case prep stuff. I'll just put a list here. Some way to trim, chamfer, deburr, ream primer pockets, etc etc. I do this different than most I'm sure. I got a mini lathe and a drill chuck adapter. Then I can use the jaws to clamp onto a lee case trimmer, primer pocket cleaner, etc etc for whatever I want to do. I got it for less than the cost of a Lyman case prep center or something similar. I'm never had issues with Lee case prep products for case trimming, but I also use RCBS a lot here too. 5. Dies -- You'll need these here. I just use Hornady because they've always been fine for me (and you get a box of 100 bullets with their purchase via mail in rebate if they bring it back this year). I've also got RCBS, Pacific, etc etc. The question would be if you got carbide dies that would allow you to skip case lube if desired. I don't have fancy dancy dies except in the case of my 9mm. So long story short, I use case lube. What I do here is a mix of lanolin oil and 90% isopropyl in a spray bottle. Works great, and is much cheaper than fancy stuff. 6. Press - Lots of ways to go here. If you could get a 650 that'd be super cool. I have a couple of Lee Breech Lock Challenger presses that work well, and an antique Texan single stage as well. I am on the lookout for a turret or progressive though to do for more "common calibers" rather than these small batch fancy dancy calibers I use. 7. Good Die locks rings. To me, these are important. Once you get something dialed in you want it to stay there. Doesn't have to be a fancy brand, just has to work. 8. Powder and primers and bullets are important. 7. Calipers --- I have a few types. Gear Wrench, Mitutoyo, Amazon special. Just make sure they go to .000 inches. I have digital and analogue, but tend to use the Gear Wrench digital. You'll want good quality measurements. 9. Powder measure. Again, lots of ways you can go here. I have an old fashioned dropper, but tend to use a digital. The one I have is a Hornady Auto Charge. I wouldn't get it again. It's kind of +/- .1 (sometimes .2) grains. And I like my tolerances tighter. It's convenient to get it close but I weight/adjust each change manually on an AWS milligram scale. 10. More seating dies (optional) - If you might be doing different seating depths then it might be good to get extra seating dies so that you can lock in a measurement on one and experiment on the other. 11. A kinetic hammer, RCBS collet puller or some other method to pull bullets apart. I like my RCBS puller a lot --- much quieter and more wife-friendly than a kinetic hammer. For the base + all the collets I needed I'm in it for like $120 versus the 20 of a hammer though. But $100 is cheap for a happier wife. 12. REALLY GOOD LOAD BOOKS. They don't have to be the newest as long as they have the data for your caliber. But try to get newer if available. More books the better. I compare load data across books for reference. The Hodgdon reloading website is a gold mine of data though. I do NOT recommend getting electronic books here. If SHTF then you want paper books. I'm probably missing a lot of stuff here, but that's hopefully some basics to get going. Note that I'm not an uber precision guy. My stuff turns out how I want it and I make improvements here and there where and when I can. Out of the whole list, where I'd spend most is the best press you can get and the best powder measure you can get. If I had to spend money on a powder measure right now I'd likely go with the RCBS Chargemaster (and still have the AWS scale secondary). Remember, it doesn't matter how good your prep is, you'll blow your toys up with too much powder, and can screw things up just as bad if there's too little. [/QUOTE]
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