I reminded myself today why I quit being an automotive mechanic

Snattlerake

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I have experienced blend door linkage problems in the past. (About two years ago.) There are plastic 'slides' that coordinates the travel of the doors via slots in the levers, and two of those 'slides' broke. I fashioned new slides out of aluminum and with much finagling and with the use of that 'handee clamp' clone, I was able to replace the broken slides.

What I experienced was smoke coming out of the dashboard vents on my Tahoe. The smoke smelled electrical. It was from the blower motor resistor coils. Those coils rely on the air flow through the ducts to keep them from overheating, and with those doors not functioning, in the 'defroster' mode, airflow was cut off (blocked) due to the defroster door not opening when selected. Deselecting the defroster opened the door that diverts the air to the defroster, the smoke cleared, and it wasn't very long after that that the over-temp fuse in the resistor coil pack blew. That necessitated another excursion behind the dashboard.

Having had problems with the same resister coil pack in my Suburban, I have since bought a supply of those fuses. Next time one of those fuses blow, I won't have to buy a new resistor pack. That said, I'll still have to remove and reinstall the resistor pack to replace the fuse.

Woody
Is there any way to relocate the resistor packs? To some part of the body that has the air cooling feature but is easier to access?
 

ConstitutionCowboy

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Is there any way to relocate the resistor packs? To some part of the body that has the air cooling feature but is easier to access?

There really isn't a better place the way the duct work is arranged and the fact that GM has packed everything in the dashboard area in a helter-skelter fashion. If you had the necessary jumpers for hooking up the electrical circuits, I supposed you could make a bypass air duct below the fan motor chamber, mount the resistors in it, then divert all the air back into the original ducts.

Woody
 

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