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Larue COMPLETE lowers - $200 for AR-15 and $300 for AR10
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<blockquote data-quote="JEVapa" data-source="post: 4133899" data-attributes="member: 41176"><p>So a couple few things and then I'll leave it alone.</p><p>I have three DD uppers that are super tight and don't like going in my LT lowers. In fact, they do <em>exactly</em> what yours is doing. Using what [USER=35036]@HoLeChit[/USER] said doesn't really work, and it's because the rear lug tolerances are tight.</p><p></p><p>See if this works:</p><p>1. Remove the CH and BCG 2. Insert pivot pin 3. Close to get the rear pin in - the interference is almost alway in the rear lug. when you try to close it, there will be a gap usually. You might have to slam them closed or tap with your palm. 4. if they close and it's hard to get the pin in, tap it in with your palm or plastic mallet (tap not whack the S out of it).</p><p>Most of the time like I said, these companies make their rear lugs have a wedge-ish shape towards the rear of the lug near the upper end to fit their lowers better but they don't like low tolerance machined lowers. Even LT uppers are super tight in the lowers...that's why they hardly move.</p><p></p><p>Also, I have not ever found an LGS in OK, with the exception of Murf's in Duncan, that knows what they're talking about when it comes to an AR. Not saying there aren't any, but I have yet to find one.</p><p>Even with Murf's, I still wouldn't take any of mine in there because they can't do or fix anything I can't already do or fix. None of them have trained armorers...mostly "experience" guys or AR15.com "AR smiths".</p><p>There's probably only one guy here that I'd ping for questions on an AR and he's on this forum and his name starts with a K and ends with an M. SPDguns is another if I needed Gunsmithing.</p><p></p><p>Just know that most likely that the holes will mic out correctly and you'll be perplexed. Compare to another Lower and not the upper. Most likely it's the rear lug tolerances and again, I've never had one that I couldn't get together. Some are tighter than others.</p><p></p><p>WRT filing, drilling, hammering, or Dremel use, DON'T do it. Don't let your LGS do it either as tempting as it may be. If you have to drill or file an AR to fit, it probably won't fit right and you're stuck with a $200 lower that you can't get rid of because it got hacked on.</p><p>If you cannot get them together at all, send it back and swap or get a refund. PM me your name/contact info and I will send a text. The lower will get tracked, and every dimension checked, and if there's and issue, it will be dealt with. That's about as much as I can say...but just ask [USER=4232]@Norman[/USER]</p><p></p><p>Or, I'll buy it from you if you don't wanna do any of that. I still think it's a rear lug tolerance thing.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JEVapa, post: 4133899, member: 41176"] So a couple few things and then I'll leave it alone. I have three DD uppers that are super tight and don't like going in my LT lowers. In fact, they do [I]exactly[/I] what yours is doing. Using what [USER=35036]@HoLeChit[/USER] said doesn't really work, and it's because the rear lug tolerances are tight. See if this works: 1. Remove the CH and BCG 2. Insert pivot pin 3. Close to get the rear pin in - the interference is almost alway in the rear lug. when you try to close it, there will be a gap usually. You might have to slam them closed or tap with your palm. 4. if they close and it's hard to get the pin in, tap it in with your palm or plastic mallet (tap not whack the S out of it). Most of the time like I said, these companies make their rear lugs have a wedge-ish shape towards the rear of the lug near the upper end to fit their lowers better but they don't like low tolerance machined lowers. Even LT uppers are super tight in the lowers...that's why they hardly move. Also, I have not ever found an LGS in OK, with the exception of Murf's in Duncan, that knows what they're talking about when it comes to an AR. Not saying there aren't any, but I have yet to find one. Even with Murf's, I still wouldn't take any of mine in there because they can't do or fix anything I can't already do or fix. None of them have trained armorers...mostly "experience" guys or AR15.com "AR smiths". There's probably only one guy here that I'd ping for questions on an AR and he's on this forum and his name starts with a K and ends with an M. SPDguns is another if I needed Gunsmithing. Just know that most likely that the holes will mic out correctly and you'll be perplexed. Compare to another Lower and not the upper. Most likely it's the rear lug tolerances and again, I've never had one that I couldn't get together. Some are tighter than others. WRT filing, drilling, hammering, or Dremel use, DON'T do it. Don't let your LGS do it either as tempting as it may be. If you have to drill or file an AR to fit, it probably won't fit right and you're stuck with a $200 lower that you can't get rid of because it got hacked on. If you cannot get them together at all, send it back and swap or get a refund. PM me your name/contact info and I will send a text. The lower will get tracked, and every dimension checked, and if there's and issue, it will be dealt with. That's about as much as I can say...but just ask [USER=4232]@Norman[/USER] Or, I'll buy it from you if you don't wanna do any of that. I still think it's a rear lug tolerance thing. [/QUOTE]
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