Learning

[cdschoonie]

I posted this on another site but thought I’d ask here too...
I’m getting ready to begin reloading, reading, gathering equipment, supplies, etc.. Couple of questions...
1) I’ve been looking at Starline brass, they advertise small and large primers, what difference is there, aside from the obvious? Is one better? Are they simply for different shooting styles (hunting vs. target)?
2) I’ve told my Henry 45/70 would be a good round to start on, since it’s big and straight-walled. I’m looking through my Lyman manual, it lists only “for 1873 Springfield”, “for 1886 Winchester & 1895 Marlin only”, and “for Ruger no. 1 & no. 3 only”. I’m assuming these are styles as opposed to actual brands? If so, what if any of the load data is for my Henry?

 

[swampratt]

Small pistol and large pistol primers in pistol cases make No difference in accuracy in my testing.
I did notice a tiny bit less velocity variance with small primers but on paper I noticed nothing.
That was 45acp.

If you look at 357 magnum it uses small primers but some were made many moons ago with large primers.
One is not better than the other.
But and there are always Buts.
The .308 Lapua case is offered in small and large primer and the small primer can take more pressure or more rounds fired before the primer pocket gets loose.
I have fired and full length sized after each firing a single Lapua .308 case with large primer and it went over 45 reloads before I got a case neck split. Loads were just around 42gr Varget and 165gr bullet with cci 200 primer.

I reloaded CCI NR aluminum 45acp cases and I could get 9 reloads before the primer pocket started seeping.
Reloading is fun.
And addictive.
I can't answer the 45/70 question as I do not reload for that.
I would assume you can use the load data for your Henry as most load data when they speak of certain rifles is because
some rifles are not built as strong as others.
So powder loads are reduced.
Or a powder with a different pressure curve is used.

 

[magna19]

I posted this on another site but thought I’d ask here too...
I’m getting ready to begin reloading, reading, gathering equipment, supplies, etc.. Couple of questions...
1) I’ve been looking at Starline brass, they advertise small and large primers, what difference is there, aside from the obvious? Is one better? Are they simply for different shooting styles (hunting vs. target)?
2) I’ve told my Henry 45/70 would be a good round to start on, since it’s big and straight-walled. I’m looking through my Lyman manual, it lists only “for 1873 Springfield”, “for 1886 Winchester & 1895 Marlin only”, and “for Ruger no. 1 & no. 3 only”. I’m assuming these are styles as opposed to actual brands? If so, what if any of the load data is for my Henry?

Good question and a good reason to look at a couple more reputable reloading manuals about the cartridge.

 

[Aries]

1) I'm not sure what you mean, most calibers use either small or large primers, so you have to use whichever that caliber calls for. You can get .45 acp with either small or large primer pockets, some may disagree but in my experience there is no appreciable difference. Large primer is much more common in .45 acp, so that would be my preference but I don't hesitate to use small primer cases, I just keep those cases separate so I don't have to sort through them as I prime. There may be other calibers that use either that I'm not aware of, but again I doubt it really matters.

2) A straight wall case is a good choice, although I doubt it makes a lot of difference which you start with. There are one or two extra steps with straight wall cases, and an extra thing or two to watch out for with rifle cases, but a lot of similarities in loading either. I would imagine specifying what rifle each load is for probably has a lot to do with how strong the receiver is that you plan to shoot it through. I would assume the loads listed for Ruger no. 1 & no. 3 are probably hotter loads that might be dangerous in an older firearm. Personally, I would be cautious about interchanging where they specify a particular brand/model, you could have two rifles that are the same style but one may withstand pressures the other won't. Henry is generally a modern, well-made firearm, so I would look for general load data that is not specified for particular guns and the Henry should handle it. Always start toward the lower end of recommended charge range and work up gradually, learn what signs to look for that indicate excessive pressure (flatend primers, cracked cases, etc.) and back off the charge if you see signs of too much pressure.

 

[rickm]

I always suggest to new reloaders to start with a straight wall pistol caliber to get the feet wet with simply because it is harder to to get a double charge in most pistol rounds than rifle rounds and you have fewer steps to go thru on case prep than pistol rounds. And i never buy new brass always pick up once fired brass for free or at a lower cost than new that way if you mess up a peice it isnt a large lost. Now the 45/70 i cant help you on that since i dont reload for it,yet, but can say your starting in the right direction by doing the reading first I always suggest someone interested to get a manual and read and reread before you get started buying anything else. And there is no dumb question in this game, so ask away and there will be several to speak up to lead you in the right direction.

 

[Okie4570]

Yes those are the "styles" of actions as they are referred to when looking at 4570 loading data. And they are separated that way because of strength of action, trapdoor action being the weakest and Ruger 1 and 3 being the strongest. Check with the Henry info and determine what it's rated at. Generally they're listed trapdoor, 1874 sharps, falling block then the lever guns and then the Rugers in order of strength. Lots of siamese mausers were rebarreled to 4570, they are a strong action too. I've reloaded 1000s of 4570 over the years for 1874 sharps but not lever guns. Crimping will be important for your lever gun.

 

[Timmy59]

https://www.okshooters.com/threads/fs-reloading-bench.279365/

 

[DRC458]

Did you buy that Henry new? If so, look through the paperwork. It will very likely tell you which loads to use, i.e. “for 1873 Springfield”, “for 1886 Winchester & 1895 Marlin only”, and “for Ruger no. 1 & no. 3 only.” It also may tell you what pressure level to load to. I wish all loading manuals showed pressures, but few of them do.

 

[cdschoonie]

Did you buy that Henry new? If so, look through the paperwork. It will very likely tell you which loads to use, i.e. “for 1873 Springfield”, “for 1886 Winchester & 1895 Marlin only”, and “for Ruger no. 1 & no. 3 only.” It also may tell you what pressure lever to load to. I wish all loading manuals showed pressures, but few of them do.

Yes it was new, I’ll look thank you all!

 

[cdschoonie]

What about dies? I have Hornady lock n load and a Lee single. Does the brand of dies matter? Will any brand fit in my presses? And do die sets come with deprimer?