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The Range
Rifle & Shotgun Discussion
M-1 Garand for apocalypse rifle?
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<blockquote data-quote="Perplexed" data-source="post: 1998521" data-attributes="member: 7157"><p>If you really are looking for a SHTF firearm, a M1 Garand would not be a very good choice. You'd be far better off with an AR15 or a shotgun, IMHO - do you really want to be engaging targets at long range?</p><p></p><p>If you're looking at this M1 Garand mainly for the "cool" factor and the history, then look first at the markings on the heel of the receiver. If it's 1942 production, it'd be either Springfield Armory with a S/N between about 462XXX and 1090XXX, or Winchester with a S/N between about 144XXX and 165XXX or 1200XXX and 1276XXX (Winchester switched S/N blocks in mid-1942). If the stock is correct, it could have a cartouche on the left-hand side, below the receiver, that looks like a round-cornered square with two rows of markings inside: SA GHS or SA EMcF; or WRA WB or WRA GHD. Probably those markings will not be visible or will be faint; if they're clear and crisply stamped, watch out for a fake as those are fairly common. If the stamp shows an eagle with three stars overhead, it's a post-war stock. Next, look at the barrel markings (usually on the right side, visible between the stock and the hand guard when you lock back the op rod) - it'd be several groups of alphanumeric characters. Look for SA-X-42 (where X is a month number) or a WRA stamp (looks kind of like an oval around a W over P). Any other dates shown like 5-53 or a LMR stamp, likely indicates a post-war barrel. After this, release the bolt (watch that thumb!), remove the trigger group, pull the stock off the upper assembly, and look at the components (trigger housing, hammer, op rod, etc.) for manufacturer stamps (SA, WRA, HRA, IHC). The more the stamps match the manufacturer on the receiver heel, the better for a "correct" project. Also, check the bore and try and get a sense of muzzle wear - if you or the owner do not have a muzzle wear gauge, use a USGI 30-06 round inserted point first into the barrel with the rifle standing straight up. Just let gravity do its job, don't jam the round into the muzzle - then see how much of the bullet is visible between the crown and the neck of the casing. A pristine barrel will show about 1/4" of bullet, while one with moderate wear will show about 1/8" of bullet. If the round drops into the muzzle up to the neck, the muzzle is worn out and accuracy probably will be lousy. A commercial 30-06 round won't work for this since the ogive will probably be different than that on a USGI round.</p><p></p><p>If you can post pics of the rifle - both sides, receiver heel, barrel markings, trigger group, op rod, etc. - we can help more. Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Perplexed, post: 1998521, member: 7157"] If you really are looking for a SHTF firearm, a M1 Garand would not be a very good choice. You'd be far better off with an AR15 or a shotgun, IMHO - do you really want to be engaging targets at long range? If you're looking at this M1 Garand mainly for the "cool" factor and the history, then look first at the markings on the heel of the receiver. If it's 1942 production, it'd be either Springfield Armory with a S/N between about 462XXX and 1090XXX, or Winchester with a S/N between about 144XXX and 165XXX or 1200XXX and 1276XXX (Winchester switched S/N blocks in mid-1942). If the stock is correct, it could have a cartouche on the left-hand side, below the receiver, that looks like a round-cornered square with two rows of markings inside: SA GHS or SA EMcF; or WRA WB or WRA GHD. Probably those markings will not be visible or will be faint; if they're clear and crisply stamped, watch out for a fake as those are fairly common. If the stamp shows an eagle with three stars overhead, it's a post-war stock. Next, look at the barrel markings (usually on the right side, visible between the stock and the hand guard when you lock back the op rod) - it'd be several groups of alphanumeric characters. Look for SA-X-42 (where X is a month number) or a WRA stamp (looks kind of like an oval around a W over P). Any other dates shown like 5-53 or a LMR stamp, likely indicates a post-war barrel. After this, release the bolt (watch that thumb!), remove the trigger group, pull the stock off the upper assembly, and look at the components (trigger housing, hammer, op rod, etc.) for manufacturer stamps (SA, WRA, HRA, IHC). The more the stamps match the manufacturer on the receiver heel, the better for a "correct" project. Also, check the bore and try and get a sense of muzzle wear - if you or the owner do not have a muzzle wear gauge, use a USGI 30-06 round inserted point first into the barrel with the rifle standing straight up. Just let gravity do its job, don't jam the round into the muzzle - then see how much of the bullet is visible between the crown and the neck of the casing. A pristine barrel will show about 1/4" of bullet, while one with moderate wear will show about 1/8" of bullet. If the round drops into the muzzle up to the neck, the muzzle is worn out and accuracy probably will be lousy. A commercial 30-06 round won't work for this since the ogive will probably be different than that on a USGI round. If you can post pics of the rifle - both sides, receiver heel, barrel markings, trigger group, op rod, etc. - we can help more. Good luck! [/QUOTE]
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