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Forums
The Range
NFA & Class III Discussion
Mag block and 9mm mags
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<blockquote data-quote="Wall" data-source="post: 1220843" data-attributes="member: 7420"><p>You may end up needing a heavy buffer or heavy spring or both, maybe not (mine doesn't). If you find that your rifle is cycling too fast, change out to a heavy buffer. I run a stroke limiter in mine. It's just a spacer at the back of the buffer spring. It prevents the BCG from cycling past the opening in the lower behind the bolt catch. Without it, the opening is big enough for an FTE casing to fall down in the trigger group underneath the BCG. I't's not necessary, but I like the assurance of nothing going down in the trigger group. Spike's sells them for ~$15. They're really easy to install & remove.</p><p></p><p>As for the magwell & mags, you can get them from RRA, Spikes, many places. Cavedweller is/was selling some in the classifeds. I use a Hahn top block with c-products (old style) mags & mine runs awesome. Many don't like the top load hahn block because it doesn't hold the bolt open on the last shot. Most seem to prefer the dedicated bottom block. The only problem is that it takes a tool to remove it. It's not as nice as the top IMO for swapping uppers at the range or in the field. It's just a mtter of prefference really. As far as mags go, it's hit & miss. I use older c-products mags. I'm not sure what they changed, but the newer ones don't work very well. BTW, this is the report of many users, not just me. Some like midified uzi mags, RRA sells mags. FWIW I've never been able to get a poly mag to run reliably in mine. Your best bet is to not go hog wild on mags until you find out which ones run best in your gun. 9mm AR's are all different. Even 2 rifles built the exact same way with the exact same components & ammo will run different & 1 could be more reliable than the other. My advice is to take your time tweaking & working out the bugs before you waste alot of money on mags. Then after you find what runs best for you, don't change anything.</p><p></p><p>Good luck, have fun.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Wall, post: 1220843, member: 7420"] You may end up needing a heavy buffer or heavy spring or both, maybe not (mine doesn't). If you find that your rifle is cycling too fast, change out to a heavy buffer. I run a stroke limiter in mine. It's just a spacer at the back of the buffer spring. It prevents the BCG from cycling past the opening in the lower behind the bolt catch. Without it, the opening is big enough for an FTE casing to fall down in the trigger group underneath the BCG. I't's not necessary, but I like the assurance of nothing going down in the trigger group. Spike's sells them for ~$15. They're really easy to install & remove. As for the magwell & mags, you can get them from RRA, Spikes, many places. Cavedweller is/was selling some in the classifeds. I use a Hahn top block with c-products (old style) mags & mine runs awesome. Many don't like the top load hahn block because it doesn't hold the bolt open on the last shot. Most seem to prefer the dedicated bottom block. The only problem is that it takes a tool to remove it. It's not as nice as the top IMO for swapping uppers at the range or in the field. It's just a mtter of prefference really. As far as mags go, it's hit & miss. I use older c-products mags. I'm not sure what they changed, but the newer ones don't work very well. BTW, this is the report of many users, not just me. Some like midified uzi mags, RRA sells mags. FWIW I've never been able to get a poly mag to run reliably in mine. Your best bet is to not go hog wild on mags until you find out which ones run best in your gun. 9mm AR's are all different. Even 2 rifles built the exact same way with the exact same components & ammo will run different & 1 could be more reliable than the other. My advice is to take your time tweaking & working out the bugs before you waste alot of money on mags. Then after you find what runs best for you, don't change anything. Good luck, have fun. [/QUOTE]
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